HELP!!!!!!!!! URGANT!!!!!!!!!!

Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

Ok...here goes...I got a new job and there was a lady there that had this plant... (I think a bonsai) She doesn't care about it and I've watched it go down hill rapidly...she didn't want it so I have taken it home today...Will someone please tell me what kind it is and if it is possible to bring it back HOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I know it has been brought back to life once before so I'm hoping to do it again :):)

Here are some pics...and if you need more just let me know

Thumbnail by kristenrice
Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

Just more pics...

Thumbnail by kristenrice
Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

more pics

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Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

more pics

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Bay City, MI(Zone 6a)

Ficus microcarpa.

Some branch tips are still green, so it's entirely possible you're seeing a drought-induced defoliation. Keep the tree in bright light, but not full sun. Water sparingly. With no foliage, the plant will use little water, so your biggest adversary is root rot. Make sure the plant gets quite, but not completely dry between waterings. No fertilizer until new growth is evident & then only sparingly until it begins a spring growth push. If your plant revives. it will do so slowly. as it will be trying to take a winter's rest. If you don't think it's a drought-induced problem, inspect carefully for insects. This plant commonly is host to scale, mealies, and spider mites. Hand pick the scale. Dab mealies with alcohol on a Q-tip and treat spider mites with frequent spritzes of water with a spray bottle or a 50/50 mix of water & rubbing alcohol. If roots have been to wet and are rotted (lift the plant and smell/inspect. Sour or acrid means rotted roots as does the obvious - black or dark and mushy. If you discover this is the problem, an immediate repot is in order. I can help with instructions if required.

Al

Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!! I do think it was due to the lack of watering. The lady that was trying to take care of it has been out on a leave of absence hence my job :) I watered it today but will be sure to not do so again till almost dry. Is indoors ok???? My bedroom gets really really bright sun during the day but it wouldn't be direct...I will try that for a while...I know you said it will take a while but once it comes back how do I need to care for it??? (and yes I'm being optomistic it WILL COME BACK!!!! ) It has been inside for as long as my boss has owned it so I don't think it is any of the other problems...and there isn't a smell or anything so I don't think it is the root rot...Do I need to repot it once it comes back??? all that good stuff...Thanks again and I'll keep updates on here so you can see when your advice helps!!! :):)

Bay City, MI(Zone 6a)

As long as temps remain above 55, it would much prefer to be outside. This plant prefers full sun, but you must protect it from full sun outdoors now. Reason: If leaves become accustomed to full sun outdoors, they will surely abscise when you bring the plant indoors. Since the plant was recently defoliated, it will use virtually all its energy reserves to put on a new flush of growth, The plant will certainly not have enough energy in reserve to replace a second loss of leaves (if anything happens to the ones about to appear) in so short a span.

Al

Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

Then for now it will have to be indoors...it has been fluctuating drastically here :( anywhere from 70 to as low as 35...But in my bedroom the whole East side of the room is nothing but full length windows...so it will at least get the benifits of sun and have the temperature of about 74....Do you think this will be ok???? Again it has been used to being indoors with sun through windows...and before Tabitha left it was really healthy...It was even healthy when I started...but I thought someone was watering the poor thing and no one was...so it just kept getting worse...If the east wall isn't any good there are several other walls in our home that are full length windows... :) very open and bright as you can guess. Let me know what ya think...

Bay City, MI(Zone 6a)

Both the light & temp exposure in your intended location sound good.

Al

Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

ok...it has been quite a while and I have updates!!! The whole top still looks dead to me...and the leaves haven't even all dropped off...but it is still alive...The poor thing has a few places on the bottom of the trunk that have sprouted new growth. I'll put in a few pictures...Should I do anything to the top of this plant or just leave it all alone for a while more? Let me know please!!!


Let me know what you think!!!

Thumbnail by kristenrice
Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

Picture 2

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Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

picture 3

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Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

last one

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Bay City, MI(Zone 6a)

The fine rootage at the top of the soil indicate an extremely root-bound plant. No apparent viable buds on the upper tree after 2-1/2 months is not a good sign. The extremely long internodes on the live branching occurring at the basal portion of the tree indicates it needs more light. The tree desperately needs a repot and some root work, but to undertake it now would seal the tree's fate. I cannot judge the condition of the trees roots from here. It could be that soil is so compacted around roots that the tree is getting no water. No way for me to determine.

Clip the wire securing the tree to the pot & lift the tree. If roots are not sour or rotten smelling:
Do not disturb them. Pot up into a slightly larger pot. When you water, add 1 tbsp of 3% H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) to each quart you use. Put the solution in a tub & allow the pot to set in water/H2O2 up to the soil line to be sure the roots get wet. Do not water again until soil is nearly dry.

If roots are sour or rotted:
You'll have to remove all rootage until you find sound tissue. This will require that you remove ALL the soil from roots. The timing is bad, and the tree will likely die, but there is no alternative except to discard the tree. After pruning roots, soak for 1/2 hour in the same H2O2 solution mentioned above. It will help kill rot bacteria. Repot in bonsai soil & treat as a cutting - keep in bright light & tent. Continue to water with the H2O2 solution until the tree dies or straightens out.

Here is a link to more info I've posted about H2O2: http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/567918/

Good luck.

Al

Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

There is no wire securing the tree to the pot...It is just sitting on a shelf made of wire...There is no spell coming from the plant but I will try to tackle pulling it up out of the soil tomorrow...it is pretty secure so this may and maynot happen...I'll try to loosen it up around the edges before doing anything...as for the light issue....It is in the brightest place in the house...I could put it outside on my deck if 60 degrees wouldn't hurt it...otherwise....would it help to go get one of those plant lights from lowes and use that as a direct light for now? I'll update ya tomorrow on what the roots look like...and since I'm really new at all this I'm gonna put up some pictures tomorrow evening when I tackle all of this...so if you could yell and let me know if they look ok I'd appriciate it...thanks for everything!!

Namaste,
Kristen

Bay City, MI(Zone 6a)

60* F. is about the lower limit for microcarpa. If it drops much below that, the plants ability to carry on photosynthesis is hampered. The grow light is a good idea. Usually, bonsai trees are secured to the pot with wire through the drain hole(s). Please ck to be sure there is nothing securing it to the pot. You can cut around the outside edges of the pot with a steak knife to loosen rootage before lifting the tree.

Good luck.

Al

Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

Ok...My husband ran to lowe's to get me a new container...In the process of taking it out of the container a few of the top branches fell off along with the remaining dried up leaves...Do I need to continue to remove the rest of those top branches or leave them alone?

Bay City, MI(Zone 6a)

... no advantage in leaving them if they're dry/dead.

Al

Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

Ok...I have repotted the poor thing...Got rid of all the branches on top that were dead...now it looks sooo sad :( I now have it in a sink soaking in that H2O2 mixture. I used a mix of sphagnum peat moss, a small rock, and potting soil...I found this mix online described as a good mix for bonai...hope this is ok...I did find a wire holding it and have replaced that wire...Great news is all of the roots were in good shape...none that I could see as dead or smelling rotten...I will place it under the grow light for now since outside it still too cold...don't want to take any chance...How long should I leave the light on it??? a typical 9 hours or so for daylight??? Or less or more??? Thanks for all your help so far and I'll keep you posted on how it does...

namaste,
Kristen

Thumbnail by kristenrice
Manhattan Beach, CA(Zone 11)

tapla, you seem to know what kind of tree this is; is it a citrus or ficus or what?

Bay City, MI(Zone 6a)

It's a Ficus microcarpa, Ulrich.

Kris - If the light is flourescent. it needs to be very close to foliage. Start a foot away & move it closer each day until after a week it's almost touching leaves. The top ov the tree will not likely come back. Resist the urge to fertilize until some good growth is evident. Check for dampness at the drain hole. When it is feeling dry there, it is time to water. It may go sas long as 2 weeks w/o needing water in a plastic container. If the tree survives, we'll get it in a more suitable soil in the summer. Cross your fingers & don't overnurture. ;o) Leave light on 18/6 if you can. I'm late for wk - gotta go.

Al

Hialeah, FL(Zone 10b)

Any updates on the Ficus tree?

Garner, NC(Zone 7b)

unfort. it just keeps getting worse...I think it is a gonner :(:( but I tried...oh well...maybe if I start with a healthy one I can keep that alive :)

Kristen

Bandung, Indonesia

Do you have any comments about this bonsai - one of my collection ([HYPERLINK@www.bonsaistar.com]) ?

Species : Ficus Benjamina

Style : Informal

Height : 40 cm

Thumbnail by limadijaya

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