Mixing soil and compost

Troy, IL(Zone 6a)

I found some compost at the freecycle site. I got a composter 3/4 full of compost (6 years worth). He even gave me the composter!!!!

Here's the big question:

My garden site is clay. I plan to dig down 2 feet and mix the clay with the compost. What is the ratio for clay to compost? I was thinking 1:1 but dont want to use too much compost if I can use it elsewhere.

Do I need to mix the clay and compost or can I layer it and leave it to overwinter and the worms etc will mix it for me?

Thanks
Deb

Bloomingdale, NY(Zone 4a)

Unless you have a very small garden, it doesn't really sound like you have all that much compost to mix with clay 1:1 at 2 foot deep. A small garden would need truckloads of compost to do that.

You really don't need to mix compost very deeply for it to be effective. Worms and leaching will bring the nutrients deeper into the soil over time.

The following method is for raised beds but you might adapt it if you are not using them. The traditional bio-intensive raised bed practice is to double dig, which may save you some work, make the compost go farther and give you the same results.

The method is to remove a strip of soil 1 foot wide and one foot deep across the bed. (Helps to put it in a wheelbarrow.) Then, with a fork, loosen the lower soil one foot deep. Don't turn the subsoil, just loosen it with the fork. This helps break up any compaction and maintain the existing soil structure/layers. Then move over and remove the next foot of topsoil 1 foot wide and 1 foot deep and pile it on top of the subsoil that you just loosened. Then loosen the exposed subsoil. Keep working your way up the bed until you get to the end. That's where you dump the topsoil from the first trench.

Then pile on the compost and work it into the top 6 or 8 inches of soil with your fork.

Leaving the compost on the surface over winter as a mulch will get some of its nutrients into the soil by spring but if the goal is to use this compost bonanza to quickly build up your soil, digging it into the top few inches will accomplish it faster.

Wayne

Hughesville, MO(Zone 5a)

Just a suggestion here from someone who has black gumbo(black very rich very compact clay)to deal with. Go for raised beds. We use concrete blocks to form ours most of the time, but for flowers, etc. that you won't be eating old railroad ties, utility post, landscaping timbers, etc. that have been treated will work. Even old lumber will last a few years. Lay down many layers of newpaper, then dump the compost on top. Get some good professional potting medium or see if you can get some used potting soil at some gardening center, add grass clippings and leaves, old hay or straw, etc.. Mix well. Let it set for the winter and plant in that. Eventually the stuff will break down and work its way into the clay, but in the meantime you have good workable soil to plant in.

It sounds as tho you have been richly blessed.

Troy, IL(Zone 6a)

I was under the impression that I would need to ammend the soil 2 feet down so that the water doesnt "pool" and give my plants root rot.

Have you heard about that?

Southern, CT(Zone 6a)

Deb, I'm far from an expert, but I think a ratio of 1:1 is way more than necessary and may make you soil too light. 3 parts soil to 1 part compost would be plenty. I think the idea is to get a minimum of 8% organic matter into your soil but less than 30%. "The Well Tended Perennial Garden" has lots of good info on this.
As far as the 2 feet deep, while that might be ideal, its not usually necessary. Does your clay drain at all? If so, I don"t think you "need" to go down that deep. But if you have the time & energy & desire.....
But for practical purposes, if you have your soil ammended and aerated to 12 inches, I think you're doing great.
Dave

Troy, IL(Zone 6a)

Thanks to all of you for your help. You saved me a ton of time and tired achey muscles!!!

Post a Reply to this Thread

Please or sign up to post.
BACK TO TOP