cold frame ??

Dry Ridge, KY(Zone 6a)

I am going to build a cold frame this year. I AM going to build a cold frame this year. I am going to build a cold fram THIS year. I've said this for the last three years but I am really going to do it this year. I've even started purchasing the stuff for it. I have one of those auto lift dohickies for the lid. I am planning on building a 4'x8' frame out of 2x12 lumber. The lid will be made in two or three sections and consist of 2x2s covered with 6 mil plastic. I am planning to affix the auto lift to the middle section and hope that it will not be too heavy. The frame will have no external heat. I am hoping to use it in all but the coldest (and shortest days) part of the winter (about 4 weeks here).

I have done some reading on the subject (several different 4 season gardening books including Coleman's book) and have a couple of questions. I live in zone 6a. Would it be worth my time and energy to dig down and insulate the frame sides? What are some things I need to watch for. What are some of your sucessess and failures in cold frame growing?

Augusta, GA(Zone 8a)

I have always bermed cold frames after placing them in a warm sunny sheltered spot. (the warmest sunniest winter location. Sounds like you have good plans for construction.

Shenandoah Valley, VA(Zone 6b)

You and me both, kerry. This is the year. Good luck!

I have friends around here that use blankets on the coldest days. that's all.

Southern Mountains, GA(Zone 6b)

I'm going back to my old method of making a cold frame out of bales of hay and plastic. In one frame I'lll try lettuce to eat and in another one, seed starting. It's zone 6b here and if I place them in a south facing sheltered area, they should be fine.

Efland, NC(Zone 7a)

kerry...your cold frame construction will depend on what you want to do with it? If you are holding over certain plants you'll just need something to protect them from frost/cold. If you are starting/continuing seedlings you'll need more protection so the temps stay consistent.

Have you decided what you hope to use the cold frame for yet?

Dry Ridge, KY(Zone 6a)

Horseshoe,

Yes I hope to grow cold tolerant veggies for fresh eating during the 'off' season. I am going with lettuces, radishes and others early in the fall and next spring, kale and spinach during the colder times. Next spring I will probably use part of it to start some seedlings. I am open to other things that would do well in the cf environment too.

Fritch, TX(Zone 6b)

well good for you, and i am going to FINISH building my cold farmae THIS YEAR!

I am in 6b, and want winter veggies as well. i found an old book with diagrams & suggestions, and dedcided to go with one with some heat under it, in the form of manure

so last fall, i had a friend with a backhoe dig an 8x15x4 foot deep hole in the front yard (south facing with north protection)

it was brilliant, except that all those other friends that were going to help (i am not good with construction) got busy.

so nos i have a three foot hole with manure & hay compacted in the bottom (couldn't keep my kids from "dropping" their toys & going to get them /LOL. but at least i have two volunteer sunflowers & three watermelon plants growing down there, LOL

honestky,i will be happy of i get my cast off in time to haul in some more manure & cover it with plastic, then next year i can lay the cinderblock walls

oh, yes, my suggesytion was to dig down a little (not 4 feet), and use cinderblocks 12" thick, go as deep as your frost line, that will help a bunch!

good luck! (pardon my typing)

Dry Ridge, KY(Zone 6a)

Roseone,

Do you have any problem with overheating? I am not here all the time to cover and uncover. That was my motivation behind spending the $$ on the auto vent device.

TamaraFaye,

Will the manure need to be replaced every year or more often than that? Our topsoil is about 8"-12" deep here and it is pretty claey under that. I am wondering if digging a deep hole would end up doubling as a water trough. I did consider digging to the frost line, isulating and backfilling to help keep things a bit warmer. I haven't looked into the cost of cinderblocks. I am assuming you will put mortar between the blocks? Will you put some of those smallish caps on top of the cb to cover the holes and will you fill the holes in the blocks with anything? Are you planning to paint the inside a darker color to hold heat?

Augusta, GA(Zone 8a)

technically when you add fresh manure to the bottom for heat, it becomes a hot bed versus a cold frame. Those are also very useful but serve a different purpose than a cold frame. And yes, you have to redo with fresh manure at the beginning of every planting season. It is the composting of the manure which provides the heat. Once it has finished composting, the heat effect is gone.

Efland, NC(Zone 7a)

Yep, 'tis true what F-Dill says. It's also a pain to me to have to do it (but then again I'm the lazy sort)!

If you want a hot bed it's better to spend a couple bucks on some heating cables and lay in the bottom.

Kerry, if you use cinder blocks you can just fill the holes with dirt/clay. You can also dry stack them and they'll be fine. Attaching a wooden band around the tops with 2X8 lumber will give you something to attach the hinges of the windows to as well as latches to lock the windows down.

The auto-vent opener is a great idea and will keep you from burning up your plants!

Fritch, TX(Zone 6b)

Yes, as HS said dry stacking is fine. i will only stack mine to a couple inxches above ground level.

right FD, works as a hot bed for about two months. so i fill it late fall for extra warmth for cold hardy stuff. then use as spring cold frame. after those are planted out, will dig out and spead the compost. then fill hople with kitchen/garden waste during summer, haul in manure late fall.

this is all just a plan, so can't say yet how well it works i have two young strappin boiys who needs lots of muscle work, & i ain't no sissy mrsef, like doing hard work to set the example! don't want to use electricity for this, just more expense for me, wqorking towards more efficiency...

oh, & no, not painying the inside, the cindreblock are under gtround and filled with topsoil etc. do intend to paint barrels black and use for the north wall, filled with water.

there were lots of ideas in that book, i'm sorta combining them. if i overdo, i can always grow tropicals LOL, or icksnay on the manure every year

due to my current physical state, i will probably noy be checking im often, so i will go ahead & give you the name, it was "solar growing frame" published by Rodale in the 80s i think, has blueprints too, found it used on www.alibris.com

best of luck, will check in on you later!

TamaraFaye

Dry Ridge, KY(Zone 6a)

Hey all, thanks for the tips and the book reference. I had heard of that one but as of yet haven't read it. Stay tuned...

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