What's the best way to prune a young tree?

I have quite a number of small trees I have started from seed. Most are less than 5 years old. Unfortunately many of them have been bunny pruned in the past, and are well on their way to becoming large shrubs. Most of them are flowering crabs. How do nurseries get the long tall smooth trunk, as mine would rather grow limbs all along their trunk.

Do I continue to take off all side shoots except the leader until they are several feet tall? This seems kind of harsh.

If I have to remove basically half of the tree because it branched into a "Y", isn't this too drastic on the tree?

I think this is better done when dormant, but I see alot of growth going on right now that I don't like, and don't want them to grow any further out of shape. I worked on a few this morning, I hope I didn't do more damage than good. Any advice or sites you could suggest on handling seedlings?? Thanks,Legit

Legit, I am certainly no expert but for my 2cents worth. I would continue to prune along the trunk, which ever one you have selected as your choice of main trunk, to keep to a tree shape. You can let the side branches grow whenever the trunk has grown to whatever heighth you like, and then use your side branches. I have an allee made up of 10 Malus, crabapples Prairie Fire. I prune them constantly to keep branches clear over the path. DonnaS

Rutholive, What height do you suggest to stop pruning? What age do crabs from seed start to bloom? Legit

Legit, the nursery from which I buy my fruit trees recommends that any growth along the main trunk not be removed until the caliper of the trunk reaches an inch. Those extra leaves help the tree generate more food thus growing faster. One that inch is achieved in an area, prune the branches in that area. Continue in this way until your tree has reached a few feet higher than the height you wish the first branch to grow. That winter, prune the leader at the desired height. Pruning will force the production of side branches.
Veronica

Legit, Veronica gave you excellent advice, much better worded than mine. A don't believe you can expect bloom until they are 3 or 4 years old at the earliest Goodluck. DonnaS

Thank you both, that is exactly the clear cut advice I was looking for!! Looks like I have jumped the gun a little, guess I will hold off. What about the ones that have formed a Y close to the ground because of rabbit damage, I should probably select one side or the other now, don't you think? Otherwise it will not be able to correct itself and grow straight? Legit

Yes, choosing one of those and cutting the other will redirect the energy into the remaining stem. Try to choose the straightest. Place a stake close to the trunk and tie the trunk to the stake to straighten it out. If it's too bent, you'll have to tighten in stages. Don't use wired twist-ems as the wire in cut into the tree. After 2 or 3 months loosen the tie to see if trunk stays straight. Remove the tie if it stays straight or put it back on for a longer period. This type of staking is recommended only for straightening out a trunk. Otherwise, if the tree is growing straight, you don't have to stake. Allowing the little tree to sway in the wind will help it develop that taper usually seen on older trees. If you have to stake, for example because a one directional wind is making it grow to one side, use 2 or more stakes and place the ties so that the tree has some movement. It's the movement that forces the tree to develop a thicker trunk.

Veronica

Bettydee you are good, how do you come by this wealth of information?? I know of what you speak, I recently had DH remove a 5 ft wire hoop from a small oak, and it is not able to stand up to the wind on it's own, seems we have a very strong prevailing wind, many of our larger trees hang to the east, much too late for them now, but I have lots of babies that will need a tug in the right direction. I will put a second stake in for him.

As long as the info is flowing, what is the best trunk protector for rabbits in the winter?? I have looked for the commercial type of a tube with holes you see sometime, and have not found them readily available. Someone else suggested a type of drainage tubing. Legit

Legit,

RainTree Nursery has them. I have ordered most of fruit trees from them and know they are very reliable. I purchased the kind of tree guards that come in a roll from another company, but is took so long to get them, I wouldn't recommend them.
Veronica


http://www.raintreenursery.com/catalog/productdetails.cfm?ProductID=T364

What about cutting the bottoms out of old black pots and use them against the rabbits... it you were careful you could use them year after year. Just a thought -= I have to figure something out to.... or coke bottles..... that might work...

Thank you, Bettydee, that is exactly what I was looking for, and for that price, it wouldn't be worthwhile to fool around with alternatives.

Red Oak, you could try some alternative, but here in Wisconsin, our snow can get very deep, so I need at least the 2 foot length of the others. Thanks, Legit

That would make a diff - here I dont get snow for more then a few hours at most.... keep forgetsing weather might change things.