Worms are eating very slowly

We recently started a worm bin. We've had them about three weeks now. They seem to have adjusted to the new environment well. They are eating, but very slowly. I am not talking about polite small bites. I am referring to the amount they are eating.

When I put in coffee grounds, they are somewhat dry a few days later. Should we be getting juice out the bottom? Is it too dry? Or, like every other aspect of good organic gardening, should we just be patient?

Hi Jefe
I have been seen many knowledgeable worm type people here: http://davesgarden.com/forums/f/soil/
I just ordered my can o worms today. What type bin do you have?
A.

Annie,
Unfortunately the vermicomposting threads are mixed between the soil forum and the organic gardening forum. Ideally there would be a vermicomposting forum...but that is another topic.

I made my own bin system. After researching all of the various posts and many different sites, I decided to strike out on my own with a bit different system. I didn't want the fruit fly issue. So mine has a simple filtration system. Since oxygenation seems to be an ongoing issue, I designed a way to have a free flow cap. My one disadvantage seems to be that it is a bit more vertical than I'd like, but it saves on floor space.

Jefe...what is your "simple filtration system"? I'm getting ready to make some changes with my worm bin and am curious.

As for getting juice out the bottom...I've never had juice run out. It seems if you did then perhaps you're putting in too much liquid OR your bedding material isn't able to absorb it all. As for the dry coffee grounds...are you mixing them in with the other material? I tend to mix everythng up as I put it in the worm bin, and also mix the whole thing up from time to time in an effort to evenly distribute the food. (I must admit though that I also run my stuff thru a blender at this point in time, puree'ing it in an effort to help the "little mouths" work/feed better!)

If you have fruit flies or odor, etc...you are most likely putting in too much food scraps at a time. Remember, the worms will only eat the stuff that is in the decaying stage...fresh food scraps will need some time to begin breaking down, and during the time is when it will attract knats/flies, etc.

I'd love to see your home-made bin...can you post pics?

Horeshoe,

I will say in advance that my system will not allow a continous stack system. Not elegant, but amazingly simple to do...and best of all, super cheap. Are you ready for this? The system consists of two 5 gallon buckets that stack tightly together so that the top bucket seals down into the bottom. The bottom bucket is just that...a bucket.

The top bucket has holes drilled in the bottom for drainage.

Everything I read on vermicomposting stressed the importance of oxygen and air flow. So I thought, hey, why not have a full air flow top? The cover/filter sytem is nothing more than a double layer of floating row cover. (It was used from last year and had holes in it so couldn't be used outside. I just used a hole-free section.) A bungee cord is wrapped around the gauze-like cover to secure it. We lay a newspaper on top of the material so they have full darkness.

My fruit flies came from the source of the worms. A friend from Iowa gave me a bucket of free wriggly worms. The soil contained the eggs apparently.

As to slow eating, I will try giving it a quick blend to jump start the process. I think we have too much coffee in comparison to the other materials. No smell at all. So far seems to be working very well.

Sounds good to me! In Mary Appelhoff's book she mentioned that 5-gallon buckets would work just fine.

You know how some folks put in PVC pipes (with holes drilled in them) in their compost bins in an effort to help aerate them? Seems to me like that could also be done with worm bins, eh? Maybe just a pipe coming up the center of the buckets?

Worms are fairly slow "eaters"...I think the norm is 6 months to fully decompose their food source. I reckon all this depends on the number of worms vs. the size of the container/bin and also what they get fed though, eh?

Let us know how your worm bin does. Sounds goood to me!

This slow eating scares me! I already have kids,plants and dogs,now will I be blending compost shakes for my worms? I ordered a can o worms and worms to arrive any day now.
A

This message was edited May 28, 2005 12:57 PM

I think I maybe have too small of a worm colony. More worms would likely be faster eaters.

This is a link to my homepage that explains in detail how to make large or small worm bins of all shapes and sizes. For a fraction of what other home bins and commercial bins cost, (most of which are at $100.00 or more). Lots of pictures and ideas to build the bin to suit your needs. My site is a totally free. Hope you can use some of the ideas.

http://www.sirinet.net/~gmcowan/worms.htm

Hi Bizy
Thanks for the fantastic link !
Of course I already dished out my 100 bucks for the fancy pants spigot model but I am cool with that ! My question is this : Must the worm bin be protected from rain ?
Here in Berk we don't freeze but it rains all winter and my hubz says NO to the laundry room. Will I have to build a shed ? We don't have a garage. Should I push for the laundry room? Worms are really clean! So will the pouring rain drown them even if covered >?
Again thanks for the amazingly informative links!
A.

Annie,

All of my research would indicate the practicality of sheltering them from the rain. I think you will have a real moisture control issue otherwise.

Annie,

Fears about housing the bin in the laundry room are understandable, but probably groundless. I had one in my kitchen for more than a year with no problems at all. The laundry room should be a great home for 'em, just be careful about the bin getting too wet or too dry. If you're not already, you also might want to freeze or microwave your garbage scraps to kill off fruit fly eggs.

~Kat

Aha! Freezing them first...great idea! That does the job, eh?

Yes, freezing works, for me anyway. I keep a plastic bag in the freezer and just keep adding veggie and fruit leavings to it 'til there's enough for a feeding. Unless your bin is really hot, defrost before feeding :)

~Kat

The way I understand it the worms do not eat the food we put in there. They eat the microbes that eat the food that we put in there. (sounds like a children's song). I've also heard that there is usually some lag time when you first get the worms for them to settle in. Mine didn't eat much for the first month or so and now they are really picking up. Even so, there is a time between the time I feed and they start munching. The amt of time depends on the food. I've had coffee grounds take a week or so to disappear but a squash I pureed in the blender was gone in 48 hours. Smaller particles = more surface area = more microbes munching away = sooner the worms will take it on. Also, if you have a bucket where you collect scraps for your worms (I keep a covered 2 1/2 gallon bucket under the sink), put a handful of vermicompost in there and mix it in once or twice. This will introduce the microbes the worms will feed on and by the time the food gets into their bin it will already be ready to go.

Wow! Really? Only the microbes? Thus I really have to have an active compost action before they really get moving?

I must have very polite worms. They must set down their forks between bites. They are still eating very slowly. How slow you ask? Slow enough that the potato chunks sprouted.

Kerry, I agree about the particle size. They're like babies...a strong smoothy preference.

I double checked and here is what Kelly Slocum, a Worm expert has to say on the subject.

"Actually, worms derive their nutrients not from the paper, or leaves, or even food scraps directly, but from the bodies of the microorganisms decaying the paper, the leaves and the food scraps. The worm ingests these organic materials, but in its gut it selects the microbes as its nutrient source. "

So yes and no. They do injest the stuff but they feed on the microbes. You can read the entire post here. http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/verm/msg0512005528768.html

JefeQuickteck, when I started my worm bin I was told to give them cornmeal to get the population growing, also I sprinkle sand on top, I guess the little critters digest with a gizzard like a chicken. I've had my worm beds for 5 years now, I get about 100 pounds a year of earthworm compost. hostajim1

Kerry,
Thanks for the clarification and the site post.

Hello All. I think most new wormers are afraid of drowning their worms. Composting worm bins should have a continius drip from the bottom. If not, your worms are way too dry. Not enough moisture will result in small lathargic slow eating worms. A bin will opperate best at 75 degrees and 80% moisture.

okieherbnerd, welcome to DG!

okie,

Mine is too dry then. Thanks for the tip!

Worm update: They are really eating now. I am getting "juice" draining out. The extra moisture was the key.

If you have picked nightcrawlers as a kid or a fisherman, and learned about the right moisture level for them, you'll need to retrain yourself. These worms like it much, much wetter. Nightcrawlers would rot and turn into a stinking mess at the moisture levels that these little wigglers love.

I put in much more food than I thought would be consumed. I checked back a week later. It is all gone. They are looking for more.

Jefe thanks for the update. Glad things are going well in your bin.

Just an added note on vermicomposting (I've done it for quite a while now): You don't have to have juice drip out of the end. In fact, that may indicate that the bin is too wet and has become anaerobic because all of the air pockets are filled up with moisture (of course for worms an anaerobic environment is very, very anaerobic). The best way to tell if you have a good bin moisture is to look at your lid and see if it has any condensation. If yes, then you are good. If no, then look at your top layer of bedding. Is it dry? If yes, then you need to water your bin and/or reevaluate how many airholes it has.

A friend of mine recently set up a bin for her students and I got to see it after a week. The top inch of bedding was dry as a bone. I helped her duct tape up some of her holes so that the incredibly dry canned air (and dehumidifier) of her classroom wouldn't result in worms who weren't able to breathe.

Great points, theinfamousj! And might I add...

A HEARTY WELCOME TO DG! (By the way, I'm right down the road from ya!)

In addition to what is said above, remember also that what the worm bin is constructed of plays a role in moisture control. Wooden bins breathe more and tend to help even out moisture while bins made of plastic are not as porous and will hold in moisture (especially when there are not enough vent holes, or if they are improperly placed).

I'm one of those that has never witnessed "worm tea" leaking out the bottom of my bin. My bin is an old chest-type freezer and works wonderfully well! I love my wormies! ô¿ô

Thanks Horseshoe ... everyone I've met on DG so far has been wonderful! And so welcoming!

theinfamousj,

Thanks for the input.

I must have Minnesota worms ("land of 10,000 lakes"), because mine sure seem to like it really wet. I have a consistent juice drip now. They didn’t like it dry or even the typical wetness of a wrung out sponge like is so often described. No "anaerobic scent" is being emitted from the bin.

They are also reproducing at rapid rates. I am ready to start a new colony.

JefeQuicktech,

The best environment for the worms is one they thrive in. Try this site for the be-all and end-all of all worm forums. I love Dave'sGarden best, but for worms you have to go to "Disney".

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/verm/

Maggie

I've liked browsing the "Disney" site in the past too. Thanks for the reminder.

There are several reasons worms will eat slowly. Tempature, moisture, food/bedding stock. Make sure you have 85% moisture in your bed. Tempature can be adjusted by a small space heater from Walmart, 9.95, or use a 100W light bulb at the bottom of the bin. Temps should be about 75 to 90 degrees. Food/bedding should be pourus and areated and fresh rotting matter. If you can get your hands on some composted manure and hay they will not eat slow. Most farmers will jump at the chance to get free labor to clean stalls or might have large piles composting away that you can haul off for him..

Good Luck...