This is the second year I have tried to grow a red hot poker plant. Both years nothing has come up. I planted according to directions and nothing. They just dissappear.
Is there a special way to grow them? Are they a difficult plant to grow? All advice appreciated.
Is there a secret to growing a Red Hot Poker?
Are you planting the roots or trying from seed? They do well in full sun, don't have to have super nice dirt and do not like to sit in really wet dirt when it is cold. That is about all I know from experience.
I'm growing it in zone 5a but it doesn't grow by leaps & bounds. The first year it didn't bloom, second year had one dinky flower, last year 3 flowers. This is its 4th summer and it is barely peeking up from the ground from its winter dormancy, at first I thought I lost it. I am not sure, but I think it objected to the thick layer of fall leaves that covered the flowerbed all winter & early spring. Maybe too cool & dark under there?
I've read that it needs very organic, well-draining soil and plenty of moisture. Also have read to keep it well mulched over the winter in colder parts of its zone range. I planted one a few weeks ago, so no real personal experience with it, yet :)
Hi again :) Well, I have enjoyed myself tonight researching this plant. In particular, Knifophia 'Flamenco'. I jotted down a ton of notes in my DG Journal. Here's the link to my journal page :) Hope this is of use to you!
Take care,
Huga
http://davesgarden.com/journal/edit/viewentry.php?rid=67539
Well phooey I keep losing my messages. First the computer went down because of a wind storm and then who knows why?
Thanks for all the info everyone. I tried to get into your journal site hugahosta but I can't figure out how. Maybe tomorrow will be kinder to me!
I think maybe I planted in too moist an area. I have landscape fabric all around the plant and it keeps it cool and moist (which I did because we have such intense dry hot summers) I'll check out that site and try again.
Oh, I'm sorry... that's my fault :) I'll just paste the info here instead :)
From the plant tag:
"Striking flower spikes attract hummingbirds to the garden, and are superb as cut flowers. Blooms July thru August. Requires well-drained soil.
HOW TO GROW: Plant in full sun 24 inches apart. Grows 30-36 inches tall."
GOOGLE SEARCH RESULTS:
Listed in several places as a drought tolerant plant, yet a ton of sources say it requires moist, but well-draining locations. Apparently, wet feet over the winter can be a real killer. Can be grown in container culture. Bluestone says it blooms its first season. 1 of 8 All-America Flower selections for 1999. Link here: [HYPERLINK@pss.uvm.edu]
From the web: These are also known as Red-hot-Pokers and are easy to grow so long as the soil is well-drained. Plants form a big clump of grassy leaves that remain evergreen in milder regions. This mixture produces large bottlebrush heads in a range of shades, including yellow, orange and flame red. Stems are sturdy and good for cutting. Once established, they are drought tolerant, and attractive to hummingbirds. Clumps may be divided in spring.
Sun, Average Soil, Summer/Fall, 29-35” Tall, Spread 18-23”, Zones 5-9
American Hort Society also lists it as blooming the first year
From the web: "Pushing a plant past the limits of its hardiness is not for the average gardener," says Marie Dvorak of The Planter's Palette in Winfield, "but plants can sometimes be successfully overwintered by siting them in a special microclimate such as a sheltered southern exposure." Another tip comes from horticulturist Ann Hancock at Michigan State University, where they are trialing perennials that the English firm Blooms of Bressingham is introducing in the U.S. Hancock explains that the best way to keep perennials that are tender in Zone 5 or that are rated for Zone 6 is to grow them in raised beds with good drainage because poorly drained wet soils will cause the roots to rot. In addition, it is important to check perennial beds for plants that have heaved out of the soil through repeated freezing and thawing. Replace them in the soil and protect with mulch.
One example of a marginally hardy plant that will be getting attention this year is 'Flamenco', a new cultivar of Tritoma (Kniphofia, red-hot poker) that has just been named an All-America Selections Winner for 1999. Tritomas should have their foliage tied upright so water does not remain in the crown, said Hancock. Back to top
From Perennials for Every Purpose:
"... but they can be tough plants to grow in many regions - they're not the hardiest of perennials... I suggest taking several precautions even in zones 5 and 6. Start by tying the leaves together over the top of the plants in the fall. And you might also cover the plants with styrofoam rosecones or a thick well-aerated mulch such as hay, pine needles, or evergreen boughs. In spring, cut back foliage (which will be mostly dead) to about 2-3 inches from the ground to give the plants a fresh start.
Torch lilies also have other special requirements, particularly moist - even boggy - conditions in the summer, yet perfect drainage in the winter...
In hot summer climates, partial shade is ideal. Torch lilies are quite adaptable as to soil, but they grow best in rich, humusy soil. Torch lilies do not like to be disturbed. Rather than dividing an adult plant and risking its bad humor, try carefully digging up one of the offsets that forms at its base. If you must divide torch lilies, do so in early spring.
...Plants grown in overly moist winter conditions are likely to rot away before Spring.
From The Well-Tended Perennial Garden:
"Diligent deadheaded may prolong bloom... The old flower spike is unattractive anyway and should removed by cutting it to the ground. The foliage may decline after flowering; if necessary, cut back by one half to improve appearance. Do not cut foliage back for the winter. Bundling up the leaves and tying them together over the center of the clump for the winter may help insulate the plant and prevent excess moisture accumulation in the crown, thus possibly improving survivability. Cut back in spring when all threat of cold weather has passed, to about 3 in. from the ground, avoid pruning too close to the crown.
Plant are tender and short-lived due to lack of cold hardiness and death from wet overwintering conditions. Provide good drainage. Mulch around plants for the winter with a fine material such as pine needles to help moderate soil temperatures. Plant and divide in the spring for establishment before winter.
'Alcazar', 'Earliest of all', and 'Royal Standard' are reputed to be the hardiest cultivars."
There :) That should do it! Hope this helps :)
Jacci
This message was edited May 22, 2005 11:21 PM
Thanks again Hugahosta!
Well the phrase "well drained soil" just jumped out at me. That's got to be the problem. Here I thought I was doing so well, keeping it moist and it is the wrong thing.
If at first you don't succeed... I am feeling a challenge coming on. I am going to figure this plant out. Especially with the help from all of you!
:)
Thanks hugahosta, I guess I need to rethink her location!
Eileen
Mine is blooming it's head off right now....it's in full sun in just so-so dirt (notice I said dirt...not soil) Stays green all winter and you couldn't put a bushel basket over it if you had to. The ground is on the dry side and on the parched side in the summer...it never gets any special attention, as I planted it at some rental property that we own. Must be a difference in climate as to it's requirements....because mine asks for nothing, and is in great shape.
May I ask how old your plant is, melody?
About 5 or 6 years...I looked it over good yesterday and a 55 gallon drum wouldn't fit over it well...The leaves are over 3 ft long and it's a monster around...will get a picture of it today.
I did not have a place for this plant last year in the sun so I placed her in a more shady area. It is blooming now but is only a foot tall. I may have to move once she finishes blooming to a more sunnier location. Linda
Here's mine...taken today. It was one of those things you spade out with a shovel, plop it in and say 'grow or die'...well, it must like this spot. I've divided off starts for 3 Roundups now and it still looks like this.
Ooooh, Melody!!! That's gorgeous!!! Oh, if mine doesn't do well, we'll have to get a coaching session from your massive plant! :) Love that serendipity element, don't we?? So great when the perfect spot just kinda happens :) Thanks for the great pic!
Jacci
I like it too. I will move mine to more sun. Linda