How Much Will Smother Tree Roots?

Hi, all :) Was wondering if ya'll could tell me how many inches of soil/mulch can be added around the base of a young (under 3 years old) tree w/o smothering the roots or causing disease issues. We have a young, dwarf crabapple that the builders planted in our largest front bed. I think, though, that I may want to turn that bed into a "raised" bed to combat clay/drainage issues. I can kind of grade it so that the soil is not as deep at that end, but not too much. I'd really like to till the bed and then add as much as 6 inches total of soil amendments & mulch. Will this end up with my tree too far down in the finished bed? Also, I guess I should ask how closely to the crabapple I can till? Thanks so much!!! :)

Jacci :)

It's a matter of degree, like how much blood can you lose before it affects your health. But if the tree is that small, why not just dig it up and replant it at the proper level after you've raised the bed? You'll need to do it very soon, before it begins to leaf out.

If you choose to fill around it, stay away from the trunk and minimize the height of the fill under the canopy of the young tree. Maybe that's a compromise you can live with, or maybe you'll always regret it.

Guy S.

Or maybe you'll always regret it??? Thanks a ton, Guy! :) LOL...

Guess you're thinking right about now, "Why did this crazed woman let the builders plants anything???" LOL -- I'm tearing up everything they landscaped! Well, truth is, I didn't let them. We didn't have the house built, we bought it already built... and "landscaped". So, I do think I want to keep this tree. It has a very nice form, teeny crabapples, and it's actually a good size for where they planted it (unlike everything else). Ugh. There's another tree I have to move :) It's extremely wet, here, though and has been for weeks. I'm not sure when we'll actually be able to get in there and amend the soil/till. We had planned on it for this weekend, but rain, rain, rain has changed our plans.

Sorry, I just meant that sometimes a "compromise" is the worst of all options. I know this because I often regret compromises myself!

If you have equipment access to the area and you can wait until fall when the soil is firm, you could have it moved then by a large mechanical tree spade. Or just have it lifted for a few minutes, quickly bring in the fill, and replace it in the same spot at the new (higher) level.

Guy S.

Hmmm..... I'm not sure what I'm going to do. If Mr. Weather would just cooperate, we could get the beds ready and be done with it, but at this rate, I'm doubting it will get very dry this month and the tree will leaf out before we get a tiller in there. Waiting until fall just sounds depressing. This is my front yard, and there is not a single perennial in sight.... anywhere! Ugh :) We didn't plant any last year because we were establishing our sod and trying to get trees and shrubs in (read: "those gaudy plum trees"...LOL). Another year with no plants in that bed would definitely be the true test of my gardeners patience :) Thanks so much for all the help you've given this Spring, Guy. I really do appreciate it, pics will someday show for all the posting back and forth! :)

Hugs :)

hugahosta,

Raising or lowering the soil level aroung a tree can have dramatic effects on the tree. Your tree is probably small enough to transplant successfully. Moving it in the fall has an advantage over spring transplanting: The trees spend their energy developing a strong root system throughout the fall and winter before they leaf out in spring. This gives them a better start in spring.

I've enclosed three links. The first two are university links that explain problems with changing soil levels under trees. The third one give you information on how to move trees from one location to another.

http://hortparadise.unl.edu/Newsrelease/News/PlantingUnderTrees.htm
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/ornamentals/protect/protect.html
http://www.ag.iastate.edu/departments/forestry/ext/pubs/F-359.pdf

BettyDee

How about building a second frame around the tree (Maybe 3' square??? to give the tree plenty of room.) Keep that area at the original grade and then have it "framed" with a raised bed. That's something you could start on right away (weather permitting) and you could still plant some groundcover inside the frame that tolerates the clay (daylilies, hostas, chrysogonum.)

Hugs, I think mickgene gave you very good advice. I think it would very attractive also. If the tree is growing okay in your soil should work nicely with its own seperate framed area. DonnaS

Well!

I just blurted out "You are SO smart!" in response to mickgene's post and got quite a funny look from DH :) Now that is quite a good idea! I love you mickgene!!!!! :) Problem solved!!! Happy dance!!!!

Hugs ;)

Oh good! Happy dance for you!