New vegetable bed

We've set aside a new area for our spring vegetable garden (apprx. 20x20) and I'd be interested in some advice as to the best way to prepare the soil to have the healthiest plants. Some people suggest manure, kelp, etc., but I'm wondering if I just work these things into the soil, or do they get added to compost, etc.? I do have a compost bin going, but it's not ready to be added to the garden yet. Margaret

Have you considered Square foot gardening? You could have 16 squares of 4' by 4' with wlkways in between. Either dig in, or build up for raised beds. Then use 1/3 peat moss or vermiculite, 1/3 manure or compost, 1/3 topsoil, and a small coffee can of fertilizer per square. By not walking on the dirt, you will have wonderful results. I am just trying this the first time, and I am really excited! I rented his video series at our library. Mel Bartholemew Square Foot Gardening. The older 3 tape series is best, or there is a 30 minute single tape with less info. When you have soil this rich, you can plant things closer together and get more out of your area. He claims 80% less space, 80% less work, and 80% less weeds. Check it out!

http://www.squarefootgardening.com

Thanks TamaraFaye. I was thinking of doing something like square foot gardening. I'll check out the website later today when I have more time and I'll also see if I can locate the tape series. I heard somewhere that if you add manure to the soil you have to let it set for a while. Do you know if this is true and if so, for how long? Thanks again, Margaret

Margaret,
It depends on the manure. If it's fresh, yes, it has to compost to keep from burning your plants with too much nitrogen. But you can usually get it from somebody already composted, in which case you can add it directly to your beds and mix it in or topdress. Composting it will probably take only a couple of months in your climate, particularly if you cover it with plastic to really heat it up. The heat and humidity will help it break down faster. You'll be able to tell when it's composted just as with your regular compost pile. Other amendments can be just worked into the soil without composting. If you're really serious about the organic aspects of your vegie garden, you may not want to buy bagged, already composted, manure at the big box stores since it often has things that are not considered "organic." (It's not all manure.) Hope that helps.
All of my veggie gardening has been by the Square Foot method and I really like it. After getting started with a copy of the book from the library, I bought the book at a used bookstore for about 5 bucks for continued reference.
Michele

Thanks Michele. I'll have to check with my source about the manure. I am committed to staying organic so any helpful tips would be appreciated. I started my first garden in November which was fairly low maintenace and successful, because the weather has been very cooperative. I'm sure I'll have my work cut out for me when the heat and humidity return which is why I want to get off to a good start. Margaret

Margaret~
For my square foot beds, I am using 100% Organic Approved Composted Cattle Manure and Manure Blended with 100% Certified Organic Cottonseed Hulls. The mix of those with Peat Moss has truned out excellent.

The other rules you inquired about can be found here:

http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/nop/nophome.html

Basically, if the edible part is below ground, the compost has to be worked in so many days before planting. If above ground, so many days before harvest, and if the edible part is above ground but touching the soil (i.e. lettuce), so many days before harvest. I owuld tell you how many days, but I may not remeber exactly. i used fresh manure last year, so I had to look it up then...

Best of gardening! Tamara

edited to say I wasn't able to find it on that site, will p9ost another link for you...

This message was edited Mar 19, 2005 2:34 AM

I will quote it here, and bold the part you need...

§ 205.203 Soil fertility and crop nutrient management practice standard.

(a) The producer must select and implement tillage and cultivation practices that maintain or improve the physical, chemical, and biological condition of soil and minimize soil erosion.

(b) The producer must manage crop nutrients and soil fertility through rotations, cover crops, and the application of plant and animal materials.

(c) The producer must manage plant and animal materials to maintain or improve soil organic matter content in a manner that does not contribute to contamination of crops, soil, or water by plant nutrients, pathogenic organisms, heavy metals, or residues of prohibited substances. Animal and plant materials include:

(1) Raw animal manure, which must be composted unless it is:

(i) Applied to land used for a crop not intended for human consumption;

(ii) Incorporated into the soil not less than 120 days prior to the harvest of a product whose edible portion has direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles; or

(iii) Incorporated into the soil not less than 90 days prior to the harvest of a product whose edible portion does not have direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles;

(2) Composted plant and animal materials produced though a process that

(i) established an initial C:N ratio of between 25:1 and 40:1; and

(ii) maintained a temperature of between 131 F and 170 F for 3 days using an in-vessel or static aerated pile system; or

(iii) maintained a temperature of between 131F and 170F for 15 days using a windrow composting system, during which period, the materials must be turned a minimum of five times.

(3) Uncomposted plant materials.

(d) A producer may manage crop nutrients and soil fertility to maintain or improve soil organic matter content in a manner that does not contribute to contamination of crops, soil, or water by plant nutrients, pathogenic organisms, heavy metals, or residues of prohibited substances by applying:

(1) A crop nutrient or soil amendment included on the National List of synthetic substances allowed for use in organic crop production;

(2) A mined substance of low solubility;

(3) A mined substance of high solubility, Provided, That, the substance is used in compliance with the conditions established on the National List of nonsynthetic materials prohibited for crop production;

(4) Ash obtained from the burning of a plant or animal material, except as prohibited in paragraph (e) of this section: Provided, That, the material burned has not been treated or combined with a prohibited substance or the ash is not included on the National List of nonsynthetic substances prohibited for use in organic crop production; and

(5) A plant or animal material that has been chemically altered by a manufacturing process: Provided, That, the material is included on the National List of synthetic substances allowed for use in organic crop production established in § 205.601.

(e) The producer must not use:

(1) Any fertilizer or composted plant and animal material that contains a synthetic substance not included on the National List of synthetic substances allowed for use in organic crop production;

(2) Sewage sludge (biosolids) as defined in 40 CRT Part 503; and

(3) Burning as a means of disposal for crop residues produced on the operation: Except, That, burning may be used to suppress the spread of disease or to stimulate seed germination.

and the link
http://www.naturallygrown.org/cng_index.php?PHPSESSID=42be5ca152d995e196d01dce43e1df89

(edited the link)

This message was edited Mar 19, 2005 2:44 AM