How do I get rid of Creeping Charlie?

This past summer I had a terrible problem with Creeping Charlie spreading through most of my tomato growing area. I have spent time pulling it up; problem is I can't get down and if I do I can't get up. Is there a simple solution to getting rid of it other than using Weed Kill or something similar? Your help would be appreciated!
Gary/Louisville

Gary,

Most ivys are very similar to vinca in their noxius growth habits. Not only do they have rhizomes that multiply, they also spread by seed and the runner roots that run along all of their creeping length. So basicially they just put down more where ever they land. Because they can reproduce so many ways, and especially because they are with edible plants, I would recommend a systemic weed killer painted on the backs of the leaves at the end of the runners. Mix some Round Up, fertilizer (this encourages them to suck up the poison into their vascular systems) and a little liquid soap (this helps it it penetrate the leaves). Put the mix in an applicator (not spray) bottle such as the ones that shoe polish come in with the dauber type applicator, or use a sponge type paint brush. The backs of the leaves are less glossy so it will penitrate better and faster through the back of the leaves. You may have to repeat application after 2-3 weeks. For future prevention, don't leave the ground bare between crops. Plant a cover crop or at least mulch the ground thickly so that ivy and other invasives cannot firmly get established in the soil between growing seasons.

Gary,

Are you talking about Glechoma hederacea: http://davesgarden.com/pdb/go/2733/index.html or Lysimachia nummularia (sometimes called "Creeping Charlie'): http://davesgarden.com/pdb/go/2733/index.html or something else?

If you're talking about Glechoma, it's not a true ivy, but a member of the mint family. It's boron-sensitive so you can spray it with a homemade solution of borax (find it in the laundry section of most supermarkets and general merchandise stores.) But - as was pointed out to me - you have to consider if you want to build up boron in your soil. Other plants are also boron-sensitive, so that may cause problems later on. I'm not a scientist, but as I understand it, boron doesn't break down over time, so repeated applications just keep building up.

If you find a good solution, I'd love to hear it. I did try a single boron application on a nasty large patch (it's taken over 1/4 of our front yard and about half of the adjacent side yard. It seemed to work for a month or so, but then regrowth began. Hand-pulling works if the soil is loose...but if you leave any stems or roots, back it comes....

Here's a link that might be helpful: http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/403476/

Lots of boiling water is what I used for some grasses that were invading my daylilies. I was careful to keep the water off my daylily areas but it worked great.

If the ID is right I can add a bit. The time it is sprayed is critical. IF it is in bloom it can be killed with a broadleaf weed killer. If it isn't in bloom it just keeps spreading. The trick of applying herbicide to the underside of the leaves can be done by using a pressurized sprayer. Turn the spray head around and instead of spraying down on the plants, hold the tip down to the ground with the end facing away from you. That way the spray is directed up under the leaves. Jessamine

Do something quick or move ! I've been fighting this stuff for years.

I have creeping charlie by my pond which I don't want growing there. If I carefully treat the leaves, etc. and follow the above directions, will my fish be affected? I am presuming the above mentioned preparations won't seep into the pond water, right?

Linden, never assume anything won't hurt the fishies.Just about any of the weed killers will be deadly to fish. If there is any chance of drainage, seepage, drift or any contact at all don't use it. Your best bet would be to use solarazation. Jessamine

Jessamine, I don't know what solarazation is...Can you help me?

Solarisation would be covering the area with a dark coloured plastic tarp and letting the sun bake it to death. It will get to about 160 degrees under there...killing the plants and the seeds in the top 1-2 inches of soil.

Be very, very very careful about overspray of herbicides if you have fish ponds. Round-Up, while very short lasting in the environment, and considered a fairly environmentally friendly herbicide....is deadly to pond/marine life. April

OK. I do have a pond with a waterfall and lovely fish. The plastic is the way I will handle the creeping charlie. Thanks so much!

Black plastic mulch can probably smother the creeping charlie especially if your pond is lined. Being able to dry out the soil will help, as it thrives in moist soil - if your pond is natural, drying the soil is probably a little harder, but the mulch might be effective..

I think solarization is usually accomplished with clear plastic to provide the "solar" effect (light passes through the plastic to raise the temperatures inside this area to miserably high temperatures, killing - theoretically - weeds, seeds, and bad bacteria.)

I used solarization on my strawberry beds last summer. (All for naught as I probably won't replant there if we move this summer.) But I did quite a bit of studying up first and as I understand it, this technique is most effective in the summer when the ambient temperatures are highest and the summer sun is strongest. Two layers of plastic, with something in between to create an air chamber, will work best. You're looking at 4-6 weeks of leaving this area undisturbed, covered with two layers of plastic and the edges all firmly sealed up. (Long story short - it ain't pretty, and it still won't kill Bermudagrass (which I fondly call "the-weed-that-shall-not-die" ;o)

Terry, I think you're right...I just used black plastic because that's what I had around at the time, LOL! But clear plastic is what should be used. April

Uh, oh, Terry. I was planning to kill Beumuda on a slope by covering it with several layers of newspaper and then a layer of heavy cardboard - hoping that I could just turn it all over in a few weeks. (yes, I know it won't be a pretty sight) If that won't get the Bermuda, do you have any suggestions?
Linda

Sugarfoot..you have a start. If you put 3 or 4 inches of mulch on top of the papers and cardboard...it will work great, plus it will look ok, too. April

I don't mean to be a pessimist, but you won't be able to turn it over in a few weeks.

Last summer, we created two large beds of trees, shrubs and ornamental grasses. Before we began, I applied Round-up, waited ten days, applied a second dose of Round-Up, dug my planting holes, mulched with THICK newspaper (we're talking entire sections overlapped) and a good 3-4" of mulch. A peek beneath shows the Bermuda is still alive and well, although buried pretty deep. As long as I shovel on more mulch this spring it will keep it at bay - but just barely. Long-term, it will take several years of mulch, occasionally raking it back and applying more newspaper, and occasional dousings with Roundup to keep it beat back until the shrubs and trees are large enough to shade the area. Even then, a thick layer of mulch will be needed.