Question about planting Irises

I just got my Wayside order of bearded irises in. When I plant them, do I dig a deep enough hole so that the roots attached to the rhizomes are down in the hole with the rhizome at the surface or do I just dig a shallow hole and spread the roots out around the rhizome and cover them up? I read at the Louisville Iris Society site to place a stone or 1/2 brick on the rhizomes planted this late, to keep them from frost heaving, but wouldn't this defeat the purpose of having them at the surface to get sun and to stay dry?? Also, should I expect blooms from them next spring or will it take a year for them to settle in? I plan on moving them to permanent spots next year, will this set them back again?

Sorry for all the questions, these are just so foreign to me right now.

Vicki

I plant with the roots spread out going downward to anchor the plants well and allow the roots to draw moisture and nutrients from as deep as possible.

Ideally, bearded irises are planted 6-8 weeks before frost to give them plenty of time to root in before winter. Because you are planting so late, a larger rock or brick placed over the rhizome will help prevent heaving. It's not essential that the rhizome have sun directly on it, and one rock or brick shouldn't retain excessive moisture in the soil around the rhizome.

I never "expect" blooms on first year plants, but I do sometimes get them. Late planted rhizomes are less likely to bloom their first year than are rhizomes planted early in the season. Every time you move or disturb an iris, you risk setting the plant back, but the earlier in the year you disturb the plant, the more likely it'll recuperate in time to bloom the following year.

Give them excellent drainage; loose, fertile soil; and lots of sun; and they'll reward you beautifully in time.

Happy irising,

Laurie

Thank you very much Laurie!

Vickie, I had to order a few more from Wayside too. It is late, but I love SALES!

Teresa,
I ordered 24 the 1st time and rec'd 27, then I bought 5 more bearded and 6 Siberians (to go with the one Wanda sent me) yesterday. I know what you mean about those "cant pass it up sales". This IS IT I can't buy anything else this year!!!!!

FOR next year plant in pot if to hot or cold to plant . That way when you transfer to ground you will have good undestrurbed root system , if cold weather bury pot till spring then move to ground more chance of bloom

Thanks for the tip tazzy!

I wondered about planting some bulbs yet this fall. I was going to use the black plastic pots that they sell mums in. Hope it isn't too late, cause I have quite a few that I divided earlier that I did not get replanted yet. I am hoping that will work. One of my friends stacks straw bales around her perennials that she has started in those black nursery pots, then covers them up with leaves for extra protection, and it has worked very well for her. (We are in zone 5a.) What do you all think - ever used that type of method for overwintering?

dont mulch if wet winter you will get rot only mulch in states where it stay s below freezing for months with out thaw ,then remove mulch when it gets above freezing ,but no need where you are at. only problem is heaving and in pots they will root faster and probaly will have good roots before frezee and thawing then freezing again thats what causes heaving .