Air layering Magnolia grandiflora.

Does anyone know how big of an air layering can be done on a Southern Magnolia? I am considering doing an air layering with a small tree that is about three inches thick. The method I would like to use involves a 5 gallon bucket cut down the center with a hole cut out at the bottom to fit the magnolia trunk. The trunk of the magnolia would have the bark removed all the way around the three inch diameter. This band of removed bark would be about 2 inches. Then I would apply the rooting hormone, snap the bucket together around this and fill it with peat and keep it moist and wait months for it to root. Then after the tree develops a good root system I would just cut the tree at the bottom of the 5 gallon bucket and the roots would be contained inside this bucket. I am looking for suggestions on why this would or would not work. Again this tree is about 3 inches thick and pretty tall. Thanks for reading.

So you want to start a new root system on the main trunk of the tree? Why?

Why not try air-layering one of the branches, that way you'll end up with two trees. Or did I read something wrong here?

Horseshoe,
Thanks for your reply. The reason I'm not interested in two trees is because the main reason for doing this is to move this magnolia tree from an area that will be cleared out for the construction of a house. I know how they do this. They're doing it all around me. In a matter of hours they take out dozens of trees. I want to move this tree to a wooded water shed behind my house where it is protected from clearing. I hope this clears things up. Maybe I should have explained this in the first post. Thanks again.

Ohhh...I understand now. Thanks.

Is it too big to dig up the whole thing and move?

As for removing the bark all around the tree I would think that would be considered "girdling", and will end up killing the tree.

I wish I was more adept at this type of thing.

I do think that as tall as you say the tree is it would take a mighty good root system to support it, and you may not get that type of root system for quite a while.

Glad you are doing your best to save the tree though!

Yeah,
The size of the tree has concerned me a bit. I expect it to take a year maybe even 2. The tree is located on a lot divided up for developing. It is right smack in the middle of the lot. There is no way that the tree will end up staying there when they bring in the dozers. I have read about this method being used on Japanese maples in creating bonsai but a Japanese maple is mucho more hardier than a magnolia.

Can you try layering some of the side branches easier? At least that way you might get some of the tree (or more than one tree) rooted before the 'dozers come in and take it all away forever.

BugFreak, I agree with Shoe. Here's why: If you girdle the trunk as you describe, you will sever the cambium layer, and isolate it from the tree's root system. Cambium is a thin layer if generative tissue lying between the bark and the wood of a stem (or trunk in this case). Once you sever it, it can't grow because it can get no nutrients from the root system. This true for branches too. I fiddle around with layering Azaleas; and here's what I do: I don't girdle the stem; I injure it by making a couple of shallow cuts around it with a sharp knife. This stimulates new root growth from the mostly intact cambium layer supported by the plant's entire root system. Mind you, I've never tried this on a main trunk; branches only. Hope this helps a little. Heck, if it works on side branches, you could get lots of Magnolia clones. Good luck!!

This message was edited Apr 21, 2004 9:46 PM

once you mess with the main stalk of magnolias thats it. its kills them.

even moving them is sometimes tricky. my husband clears lots and trust me he tries to save them for me. we tried a magnolia a big one. had the means to move it and everything. got a big portion of the roots and main tap root that i dug to by hand and unfortuntly it still died. dont get me wrong they can be moved but its a 50 50 chance as i had a nursery helping me with this one. these trees are tempremental in moving. especially when they are active.

but what raisedbedbob says is true about messing withthe trunk of these. i would try layering a branch or two. at least you will have something. good luck

Thank you all for your info. I really appreciate this. I understand the concept and the repercussions of gridling and what it does to the cambium. This "gridling" method has been used for airlayering many other trees and so I thougt to ask about how effective it might be for the type of tree in question.

Having taken all of the above information into consideration, I have decided to just leave the tree alone. I have these growing wild in my back yard so it's not like I "need" the tree. I will certainly experiment with my trees using the information you have all provided. It sounds like there is a lot to be learned about neat these trees.

Raised,
Thanks for the tips and methods you use on your azeleas. I will certainly try what you have mentioned with not just the magnolia but other trees and bushes as well.

Again, thank you all.

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/ornamentals/airlayer/airlayer.html