The Poor Man's Hydroponic System

Salt Lake City, UT(Zone 6a)

I was taught a system of growing that approaches hydroponic yields, but has what I believe are several benefits. Perhaps some of you have heard of it - it's called The Mittleider Method of growing, and it's been proven highly effective in 29 countries for the past 39 years.

some of the benefits to growing this way, particularly as compared to more common hydroponic methods, include 1) very low cost, 2) simplicity and ease of implementation, 3) direct sunshine during warm weather, and 4) plant root access to the natural soil - hence all the natural minerals, etc. that the plant might be able to up-take that are beneficial to man, that might not be available in a commercial mix.

It can be done in containers of planting mix, such as peatmoss, sawdust and sand, in any of several combinations, or other clean organic materials that may be more readily available and thus less expensive.

It is also done right in the soil. In fact, Dr. Mittleider states that anyone using his methods properly can have "a great garden in any soil, in virtually any climate."

I've enclosed a picture below. I have several thousand more, if anyone is interested.

Jim Kennard

Thumbnail by JimKennard
Toadsuck, TX(Zone 7a)

Peaked my attention..........have pictures of your implemntation of this??

"eyes"

Toadsuck, TX(Zone 7a)

Thanks Jim for the emails, and the site!! I'm really excited about next year's garden now. Or is it feasible for me to start this winter? I want your professional opine here.......which is better, soil beds or grow boxes?
Seems the grow boxes would be much better for elimination of weeds, and this is a must for me at this point.

"eyes"

Toadsuck, TX(Zone 7a)

Hope you don't mind Jim, Mr. Modest.........couldn't not share this with our friends here!! Here's Jim's site.

http://www.foodforeveryone.org/index.shtml

"eyes"

Salt Lake City, UT(Zone 6a)

Folks often ask which is better - Grow-Boxes or Soil-Beds (containers or in the dirt). They both work extremely well, and each has its advantages and disadvantages.

Grow-Boxes give you light, fluffy "soil" with no weeds, and allow a bit more intense planting, because of the vertical side walls, as compared to soil ridges.

Soil-Beds, on the other hand, require no buying and building of boxes and buying and mixing of the sawdust/sand mixture.

So, for speed and ease of getting your garden going, the soil is "better".

The soil is more forgiving regarding watering also. a day or two can be missed without usually having any serious negative affects on your plants.

Grow-Boxes, because the soil does not hold water for a ling time, must be watered every day, and even one day without watering in warm weather can significantly affect your plants.

My garden at Utah's Hogle Zoo is all in the dirt, because I want to demonstrate that side of the story. But weeding is a significant time requirement in any soil-based garden, and must be done "early and often" to have a Mittleider-quality weed-free garden.

The picture is of the Dietrich family's garden, in eastern Tennessee. They have some things in Grow-Boxes and some in the dirt.

Jim Kennard

Thumbnail by JimKennard
Peachtree City, GA(Zone 8a)

http://www.foodforeveryone.org/education/
Cindy

Salt Lake City, UT(Zone 6a)

Eyesoftexas asked for more pictures of the Mittleider Method. Well here's one I think may get your mouth watering.

Jim Kennard

Thumbnail by JimKennard
Salt Lake City, UT(Zone 6a)

Hydroponic-size yields don't require greenhouses, nor do they require expensive equipment. These tomatoes are grown in dirt, but fed a properly balanced nutrient mix, and covered both early spring and late fall, to extend the harvest by several months.

Jim Kennard

Thumbnail by JimKennard
Pleasant Grove, UT(Zone 6b)

Jim... Nice Pictures... How did you bend the PVC Rafters for the roof on the tomatos?

Tygh Valley, OR(Zone 6a)

Wow, thats amazing!

Are your pruning & stringing techniques covered in the Mittleider book?

Salt Lake City, UT(Zone 6a)

Dr. Mittleider has written 10 books, and the pruning and stringing techniques are covered in several of them. Let's Grow Tomatoes is very popular, as well as The Mittleider Gardening Course. Grow-Bed Gardening also covers it well.

Drew_n_Corinn: the PVC rafters are Schedule 200, and they bend without any need to apply heat, etc. They are inserted into 45 degree elbows on the sides.

Jim Kennard

Tallahassee, FL(Zone 8b)

Jim, I'm looking into using this theory/method, except with container plants. I am disabled and can't get up and down to plant, even in raised beds, even to reach across. I can only sit at a table and plant in pots, which my DH places out in the garden for me.

What are your thoughts on using this method, sort of in a layering of soil, with lighter mix layer on top in deeper pots? I won't get the quantity, I realize, because 1) I don't have the space, and 2) I don't have the stamina. But I could still enjoy a bit of fresh from the garden taste.

I think the site mentions containers, but no info about them in the set of manuals I ordered. Do you know if the book covers container planting? Or do I need to order a different or additional book?

Also, do you order the complete fertilizer mix, or mix your own with the micro-nutrient package? Which would you recommend for containers, considering cost and effectiveness?

Thanks for any advice you may have. BTW, it's pretty hot and soggy here, but we do have some freeze nights and days in winter.

Salt Lake City, UT(Zone 6a)

Judith: You can have very good production in containers as you describe if you will use the procedures as taught by Dr. Mittleider. I recommend you use 25-30% sand, with the balance peatmoss, perlite, and sawdust, or combinations of those. Always mix in the Pre-Plant before planting, to assure your plants get a good foundation-feeding. Then use the Weekly Feed Constant Feed Solution in the water using the ratio of 1 ounce WF for 3 gallons of water. Just make certain they never dry out, which is the most common problem with pot-grown plants.

You are basically growing hydroponically, so if you will make the effort to do things accurately, you will have wonderful garden crops.

Jim Kennard

Tallahassee, FL(Zone 8b)

Thank you so much for your reply! I am looking forward to using this method in the spring when I plant again.

One question occurred to me--Using the sawdust. We live in a climate that is very hot, wet and humid during much of the year. Termites are definitely a problem here. We have to treat for them every year.

I wonder if the sawdust in the pots would tend to draw termites up into the pots. We surely don't want to invite them to come live in the comfy delicious homes we have created! We try to avoid using wood or wood products, shavings for mulch, etc. Do you know if this has been a problem elsewhere?

If so, is there a recommended substitute for this ingredient? We have lots of leaves and pinestraw that we use for mulch. But I don't want to mess with his successful system unless the sawdust might be a problem.

Ottawa, KS(Zone 5b)

Jim,

Your pictures are awesome. Particularly those tomatoes in the greenhouse and the unreal fruit sets and yields.

I have a question about the construction of the raised beds. Do you use pressure treated lumber (which usually contains toxic substances) or some substitute for pressure treated lumber?

MM

Tygh Valley, OR(Zone 6a)

I've been looking into plastic lumber, made from recycled milk jugs/2litres.
The stuff will outlast us, even in harsh enviroments. Cuts & nails just like the real stuff.
A little more expensive, but cheaper in the long run & as safe (non-leaching) as it gets.

I think the best price & place to get it is to ask your local lumber guy?

cheers

So.App.Mtns., United States(Zone 5b)

Many of you are aware of our member Jim Kennard, who posts threads related to the Mittleider Method of Gardening which he teaches all over the world, mainly in Third World countries, enabling those people to feed themselves. He has just lost his wife, and here’s the note:

Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2004 15:48:54 -0000
From: "Joe Kennard"
Subject: Death in the Family

It is with much sadness that I inform the group that Eleanor Kennard, the beloved wife of Jim Kennard, passed away last night.

Eleanor and Jim have fought a long and courageous battle with Breast Cancer for several years and today she is released from the intense suffering she has been enduring.

Services are slated to be on Saturday, Sept. 11, 2004 at noon.

Thanks,

Joe Kennard
Jims' "little" brother

Tallahassee, FL(Zone 8b)

My thoughts and prayers are with him and his family at this time of immense loss.

Hixson, TN(Zone 7a)

My thoughts and prayers are also with Jim and his family , may God give them peace and comfort.

Pleasant Grove, UT(Zone 6b)

I am gonna bump this and invite anyone interested in the Mittleider Method to participate in a thread we have started in the Vagitable Gardening forum.

Drew

Kerrville, TX

I know this page is old but I am setting up a Mittleider garden and was wondering if anyone else is using this method..I would be interested in hearing if you have...

Ottawa, KS(Zone 5b)

HotnSpicy,

Our garden is so sandy that it has a low level of natural fertility and leaches nutrients rapidly, so I am using a variant of Mittleider out of necessity. I apply soluble nutrient products every week or two as diluted liquid fertilizer (that is sometimes called "fertigation"), and I supplement that with some foliar feeding as well.

I am not an organic gardener, but I am trying to convert the sand to a sandy loam by adding compost. I have four compost piles going right now and plan to create more. Last spring I tilled in several compost piles and applied more as mulch and pathway material. We are in a woody area with a lot of brush piles and I have a good shredder-chipper to convert the brush, fallen deadfall, and leaves into a fine compostable material, very similar to the sawdust that is sometimes used in Mittleider.

So for the time being I am basically doing outdoor hydroponic culture in the garden sand. I don't use Mittleider's nutrient products, but I do use locally available commercial soluble nutrients like Miracle-Gro, Peters, Schultz, etc. We don't have a good local source of dry hydroponic nutrients, but I have obtained some from online sources, and I use some of those in the garden as well.

Actually, it's working quite well. Hopefully the compost will eventually slow the leach rate, but I will probably continue this Mittleider-like gardening style anyway, because I enjoy it and my plants seem to as well.

MM

Nauvoo, AL(Zone 7a)

I use the mittleider magic and I think it makes a big differance . My plants did much better.

Toone, TN(Zone 7a)

Thought I'd bump this thread up for all those creating new beds now.
carol

Taylor Creek, FL(Zone 10a)

Here's a new link, that works, http://sustainable-gardening.subto.us/tip/mittleider.html
And another to Jim' classes,
http://sustainable-gardening.subto.us/tip/mittleider.html
Sidney

Lawrenceville, GA(Zone 7b)

Jim:

What type of watering system do you use?

BB

Orange Park, FL

bronx,
For some reason the hyperlink listed in this thread has to be followed as far as it will take you. Click on the hyperlink posted by sugarweed. Then click on the "food for everyone foundation" link shown just below the cartoon picture of the 'happy veggies'. That will take you to all the good stuff. Once there, click on FAQ's at the top of the page. Then down the left side of the FAQ page click on the "automated watering" category.
seems like a whole lot of searching, but the info is really good.

Lawrenceville, GA(Zone 7b)

Thanks BL

Byron, GA

BB,
Talked to someone in "Food for Everyone" today and she said that Jim was out of town and wouldn't be back 'til Friday. Just letting you know in the event that Jim does not post for a few days.
Digs

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