Tips on Hollyhocks

Stockport, OH(Zone 6b)

I know there are many of you out there that have raised beautiful hollyhocks, but my sister has no luck at all with them. They look good the first year and then then winter kill, I need all the help I can get. We are in zone
6B, I wondered about digging them up in the fall and storing them in my greenhouse for the winter the first year? Help! (Thanks!:))

Woodburn, OR(Zone 8a)

I've never tried to move them, I remember my grandma used to say they don't like to be bothered- once they find a spot they like, leave them alone. Also, I think there are annual hollyhocks as well as perennials, maybe she could try a different variety

Westbrook, ME(Zone 5a)

Hollyhocks are short lived..... a lot of the time they'll act as biennials. Once in while I'd have one live 3 years tops. They always re-seeded for me so it seemed like I always had some around. I quit growing them because of the rust and weevils were destroying them. They are easy to start from seeds. It seems like a good rule of thumb is ... if they bloom their heads off... they won't be back the following year and it's time to start new ones.

You can move them when the plants are small and you're able to dig up the entire root. The roots are thick and fleshy and will break easy on the big plants.

Western, PA(Zone 6a)

The ground may be too wet in the winter and they just rot. An alternative is to grow perennials of the hollyhock family (Malvaceae). Malva, Lavatera, Hibiscus, etc. The big (flower, size) Hibiscus are the 'in' perennial these days.

Knoxville, TN(Zone 7a)

Hollyhocks develop a long tap root. If this root is disturbed, the plant may live - - but won't bloom that year. For the best blooms, I start a new batch of plants late each summer. The plants remain small all winter - - but are working on developing that long tap root. Then in the spring when it warms up, the plant really starts to grow.

I know that hollyhocks self seed - - but mine always took hold in areas that I didn't want to have plants (like all in my yard), and then didn't reseed in my bed. So, I either move the seedlings (yes they can be moved while still small - but be sure to dig deep to get all the root) or start new ones from purchased seed.

Golddog is right about them not liking soil that is too wet. You might want to add compost to your dirt to encourage better drainage.

Good Luck - - Hollyhocks are my pride and joy. But I have to help mine along to keep my beds going.

Lima, OH(Zone 5a)

I am in zone 5, Ohio, have a bright dbl. pink 7 years old. Plant stays brown all winter, then blooms every year. This is not from new seeds, but from the old plant that I can see.

Woodburn, OR(Zone 8a)

My daughter has some that are at least 5 years old, they are planted in a well sheltered spot, maybe that has something to do with it.

Stockport, OH(Zone 6b)

Thanks for all the tips, we're going to try them again this year!:)

Lappeenranta, Finland(Zone 3a)

my sowed Hollyhocks, and one has sprouted.....then I sowed althaea officinalis too..........hopely theu grow nicely...

is the sun, half shade or the shade the best place for them?

Mcallen, TX(Zone 8a)

Mitjo, sun or partial sun.

If you want htem to bloom every year, I would plant some the first year and again the next year, because they ARE biennial and wont bloom till t heir second year.

Although you can push the line and plant them in autumn, and many times they will bloom the following spring and summer. I guess they look at CALENDAR years, LOL, not full twelve month years.

Love, Lavanda

Baker City, OR(Zone 5b)

Does anyone know if hollyhock seed needs to have a chill period before it will germinate?

Horn, Netherlands(Zone 8b)

Hi MaryE, Hollyhocks don't need a chill period for germination. As above already is said: be carefull not damaging the roots. I always sow them directly outdoors or in separate pots or in the round centercarton that is leftover from toiletpaper. You can plant them out with the carton. It will vanish at the time.
Saya (NL, zone 8b)

Mount Hermon, LA(Zone 8b)

Hello! I purchased some hollyhock plants (Chather's Pink from Park) and am waiting on their arrival. I have never grown hollyhocks, nor seen them growing here in the New Orleans area.

Someone in a previous post said that they are biennials. Does this mean that even if the plants grow and survive, that they will not bloom THIS year, but perhaps next year?

Thank you for any information provided.

Mcallen, TX(Zone 8a)

Lil Sweet Pea, I fyu shelled out money for live plants, they will prolly (hopefully) bloom this year.

Biennials means that they have a two-year life cycle. For hollyhocks that means if you plant seeds one year, the plants will grow, but not bloom untilt he following year, then go to seed. They will then reseed, and so will bloom again the the fourth year after the planting of the original seeds. (I sound to myself like I am not making much sense).

So, in my personal opinion, you should plants some seeds this spring so they will bloom next spring, and then the plants you ordered will drop seed for the following year.

The idea is to get them going now, then they should reseed forever and regenerate, so you will always have holyhocks as long as you want, dahlin.

The hollhock seeds are very easy to spot and plant- you dont need to buys plants.

Email me with your address and I will share some seed with you that I just got. And, BTW, welcome.

Hugs, Lavanda

Mount Angel, OR(Zone 8a)

I bought seed from Burpee of one variety called Creme de Cassis, they said it was new. It is semidouble purple with a yellowy center. At least that is what the picture looks like. It was 50 seeds, I think I have 35 hollyhock babies in the greenhouse. I was pleased how quickly and easily they germinated. I had them on a cable at 70 degrees. So for those of you who are wanting to get them going from seed my experience has been successful relatively easily. Good Luck all.

Woodburn, OR(Zone 8a)

oooh, I saw those in the catalog, super yummy!

Grove City, OH(Zone 6a)

bt, one thing I found out about hollyhocks: the stems are hollow. If you delay cutting the last flowering stalks down until spring, they will survive just fine. If you cut them down in the late fall, any water that falls: rain, snow, etc., will go down the stems into the taproot and kill them. I had some that lived to be 5 years old. When I finally removed them, the taproots were a couple of feet long.

Post a Reply to this Thread

Please or sign up to post.
BACK TO TOP