whiefly- yikes!

Brielle, NJ

Help - does anyone know if a sure way to eliminate whiteflies on indoor plants - short of throwing the plants out? Have tried yellow sticky cards, which work on the adult flies, but not the eggs, so I'm losing the war there.Have also been using neem oil, but it's hard on the foliage of some of the plants. I really want to solve this problem before tomato plants go in (mid May here at the Shore). Thanks

This is a very common problem Madeline. The waxy coat on the whitefly give it good protection, and as you say, the eggs are not affected by insecticides; even acaricides which are made for insect egg aradication don't seem to help. Don't forget, the eggs will eventually turn into adults and will be caught be the yellow cards. They are what I used for many years, especially for the fuchsias. Keep the card immediately above the plants and give the plants a gentle flick as you pass by to raise the fly towards them. You can purchase biological control in the form or predators (Encarsia formosa and Delphastus pusillus), but you can't really be leaving the vents open if you want to keep them where they will be effective.
Pyrethrum based chemicals are effective to a degree but it is important to have a spraying regime to cover hatching eggs. At least weekly during the warm summer months.
I would be trying the cards together with some Encarsia formosa predators and either keeping the vents closed or taking the chance of them migrating. Also remove the most effected foliage and burn (without of course striping the plants too much).I really feel that it will have to be a combination of actions.
Alternatively, remove everything to another locality and thoroughly clean down the glasshouse to make it ready for the tomatoes. The use of a sulphur candle or smoke bomb will eradicate everything. The house must be completely empty; any remaining plants would be defoliated. And be sure to vacate the house as soon as releasing the sulphur. Also don't linger inside when you open the vents to clear the fumes after the suphur has taken effect (usually overnight).

Peter.

Deep South Coastal, TX(Zone 10a)

If you can purchase a chemical called imidicloprid(Merit, Marathon) it will work. It's a systemic, the same thing in Advantage that you use on dogs and cats to keep off fleas. It CANNOT be used on food crops, but on ornamentals is one of the best. It takes about 5 days to get into the plant and works for 90 days. It kills sucking insects, but won't hurt birds or mammals that eat the plant or insects off the plant.

Brielle, NJ

Peter 63 and Callalily: Thanks to both of you. Madeline

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