Oncidium needs help

Litchfield Park , AZ(Zone 9b)

I have an Oncidium that I am concerned about. The older leaves are drying and become stiff like a palm and pull right out. But it is still getting new growth. Is this normal or is it in trouble? This is my first and only orchid of this type.

It was repotted from the original about a year ago. It is under grow lights and is watered about once a week.
Also if it is not in bad shape what is the trick to getting it to rebloom
Thanks

Thumbnail by dmwade Thumbnail by dmwade Thumbnail by dmwade
Cleveland,GA/Atlanta, GA(Zone 7b)

It's a Cymbidium not an Oncidium. Totally different culture. The type you are showing is a florist plant...Chinese cold growing ones and are not easy to rebloom. They require lots of light and fertilizer plus a lengthy period of cool, dry weather (forties to fifties at night) in fall to initiate bloom in winter. I grow Cymbidiums but have little luck reblooming this type. I've never seen Cymbidiums grown under artificial light but even if it could be done you still need the seasonal and daily temp swings. In addition, your plant looks like it needs higher humidity.

Reno, NV(Zone 6b)

First, your orchid is not an Oncidium, its a Cymbidium. Cymbidiums are terrestrial orchids - that means they grow in loose, well draining soil. In your zone, it could live outside most of the year. They will take temperatures down to 32 unless they have bloom stocks developing.

It looks like a happy healthy Cymbidium and should start growing bloom stocks this fall or winter - they will open next spring. Your plant needs to be in a cool spot that doesn't get artificial light. The drop in temperatures and the shortening day are the triggers for bloom development. Once the flowers open, you can bring it in and admire it but if you bring it in in bud stage, they will drop off.

It doesn't look like your winter temperatures gets below about 40 degrees. I would move it outside into a shady spot (under a tree or covered patio is ideal). You will have to protect it from the summer heat and add humidity.

Also, Cymbidiums bloom best when root bound.

Hope this helps.

Daisy

Cleveland,GA/Atlanta, GA(Zone 7b)

I have Cymbidiums that are over thirty years old that have been posted here. I've not seen them grown in soil mix. I've seen them grown in hydroton or similar non-organic substrates with and without bark. They are not 100% terrestrial in that they grow in leaf litter while inclining up tree bases.

I grow mine in leafmold (literally save piles of partially decomposed fall leaves) & medium orchid bark. I cram a layer of leaves and then a layer of bark to set the plant then repeat and repeat some more. I pot the plants high (as in mounded well above the pot) and add more leaves as the mix deteriorates. Somewhere back here is me doing a demo, with photos, of how to propagate and pot Cymbidiums. I'll go looking but haven't figured out how to cut & paste on my little tablet.

Carol also has old Cymbidiums and is very knowledgeable. Maybe she will add advice.

Reno, NV(Zone 6b)

When I said loose, well draining soil, I was visualizing something with a lot of bark and a little soil. Actually, I'm lazy so I get the bag of orchid soil that says its for terrestrial orchids.

I had 10 - 12 Cymbidiums in California (zone 8) that lived outside year 'round. I gave them all away when I moved. I kept one, a hanging chocolate colored one. It had 9 bloom stalks last year.

Daisy

Cleveland,GA/Atlanta, GA(Zone 7b)

The temperate part of California is nice for growing Cyms outdoors year around.

I've been repotting over the last weeks. When I pot up I don't expect blooms the following year but as the pseudobulbs fill the pot they bloom well for two or three years and then it's time to divide and share (or even better, swap). So here is one that was potted a few weeks ago as an example of my mix. It's only leaves and bark. I will water to keep the mix damp through Thanksgiving, put them out in full sun on above forty days and only water lightly every few weeks until I see spikes. As soon as spikes initiate I step up the water and start fertilizing.

Cleveland,GA/Atlanta, GA(Zone 7b)

I don't know why the photo I included showed up in the preview an not the post. Some issues might be tablet related.

Thumbnail by MaypopLaurel
Reno, NV(Zone 6b)

Hi Laurel,

I always wonder if the original poster ever looks at the post again. I suspect we lose some of them because they think that an email will pop up saying they have a response. So this has become a conversation between you and me.

Anyway, did you know that when you pull those old tired bulbs off the plant (back bulbs - the ones that are still green but have lost all their leaves),you can pot them up to grow new plants? It takes a couple years before you can expect flowers. First year, a new bulb on each side of the back bulb. Second year, flower stalks off each side bulb.

I mention this because you have one back bulb in that pot.

Fun!

Daisy

Cleveland,GA/Atlanta, GA(Zone 7b)

Back bulbs are left on if the plant has insufficient (less than four) front bulbs with leaves as in the case of this orchid. They provide the plant with stored energy. The above plant had been neglected. In any case, Cymbidiums with those really long strappy leaves, sold in grocery stores and big boxes and always unnamed, are grown under conttolled light/dark and temp conditions and don't generally recover. They are meant to be enjoyed for the months they are in bloom. Growing named plants that are more flexible is likely to result in a long lived plant. This goes for other orchid genera as well. The forced conditions these plants are grown under leads folks to believe they can't grow orchids while their plants go downhilll fast.

Litchfield Park , AZ(Zone 9b)

Hello Ladies,
No you didn't lose me just been too busy to check my post. Thank you both for your suggestions and information. I actually did know that it is a Cymbidium don't know why I said Oncidium must have been a "brain fart" 😳 I moved the pot out to my courtyard where it will get cooler nights but unfortunately less light. I am in the Phoenix area so most plants had to be indoors for the summer but now the weather is much more tolerable for plants.
Thanks for your help
Dee

Reno, NV(Zone 6b)

In California, mine lived under oak trees year round. We had 100+ degree days but probably not as many as AZ. Also, it was humid under the trees - they were sitting on a mat of Baby Tears. Direct sun would not be good for your plant so your courtyard is probably perfect. The quality of light is always better outside.

Reno, NV(Zone 6b)

Laurel, I wasn't suggesting you remove the back bulb now, or ever. I was making an observation and forgot I was responding to the orchid expert.

I personally wouldn't have divided my plant into such small pieces but that is also your choice.

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