Basic Question about Borders

I am very new to landscaping and gardening, having moved from a DC condo to a nice house in the South a couple of years ago. Last summer, I removed about 1,500 square feet of invasive vines and suckers from the back edge of our property and spent the fall, winter, and spring making sure it was gone and would not return. I am now satisfied that I have rid that portion of the yard of the unsightly mess I had before and found the process highly therapeutic and enjoyable.

Now I want to put some shrubs and small trees there. The goal is two-fold: something nice to look at and some privacy. I have a large cedar and a large hackberry on each side of the area (about 80' wide), so I have some heavier shade, some partial shade with afternoon sun, and some full sun.

I have read several books over the past year (Dirr's book on Trees and Shrubs, the Southern Living book, and some gardening books specific to my state) and have visited many local nurseries, HDs, and Lowes, but still have some very basic questions that I hope you all might be able to answer:

1. Does having several small trees/large shrubs in a straight line look strange if they are not the same?
2. If so, is it better to stagger the plants across a swath of land or add a line of smaller shrubs in front of the larger shrubs?
3. Either way, does a border have to be only evergreen shrubs?
4. Does it look odd to have only one plant flower in a particular season, e.g., a witch hazel or camellia in winter?

I recognize that these may be pretty basic questions, but appreciate any guidance you can offer.

Thanks so much!

Straight line vs angles vs curves:
If the house and garden is formal, then straight lines and geometrical angles and symmetrical curves are the way to go.

You do not have to use all evergreen plants in the border. Better if you don't, in fact. Good to mix in some deciduous shrubs or trees for fall color, and some dormant bulbs so they show up for a while, then die back to give something else room.
Even a tree or shrub with no leaves acts like a screen, though not as effective as one that is densely leafed.

If the border is (like yours sounds) between 'tame' (your garden) and 'wild' (the woods beyond) I would use a mix of species. Not JUST one...one...one... but a small grouping of perhaps 3 of something a bit larger, then an area with perhaps 5-7 mid sized shrubs, and a band of something lower, perhaps more colorful at the base, sort of tying it all together. Then repeat some mid sized shrubs (perhaps a different species, color, texture) and another tree or small clump of trees, then more shrubs, and continue a band of color in front. The band of color can be mixed, or larger blocks of one thing, interwoven with a larger or smaller block of something else.

In other words, combine concepts: Mixed species, but several of each so it is unified.
Here is a really simplified concept. If this represented perhaps 1/3 of the distance, I might mirror image that to fill another 1/3, then repeat several of the same species in a somewhat different layout.


This message was edited Aug 24, 2015 4:59 PM

I agree and love Diana's reply, the only things I would offer is to make sure you do a simple soil test so you know ANY tree's / shrubs will actually grow and survive your conditions, you can buy a very good novice testing kit for a couple of dollars at garden store, easy to follow instructions and this kit will show you the PH of your soil (make sure you test several different areas) it will tell you what type of soil you have, IF you need to add some lime, or peat etc depending on the type of plants you think will suit your area.
Look around the neighbourhood to see what does grow, Autumn colour is just as important as summer type flowering shrubs, so look for a mixture.
When I want to remake or alter a border, I usually search my gardening books for ideas via pictures, growing hints / tips, I go to the bigger garden centres and pick out a few types Im looking for, then group them together to show what they look like growing close to each other, the different textures on leaves is just as attractive as different flower colours, there are many slow growing shrubs from the Maple family, weeping, upright taller tree's etc, but the different leaf shapes / textures and colours are wonderful, the same for Rhododendrons, these come in various colours of flowers AND leaf, but you need to see IF your soil and temps will suit these.
When you walk around the neighbourhood looking at what grows and likes your conditions, make sure you have your camera to hand, that way there is always the possibility that the tree, shrub etc can be identified easily with help.
Good luck, just do one area at a time and DONT plant too close, prepare your soil well for the new plants and you will soon be enjoying the results.
I always sink a clear plastic empty drinks container into the planting hole, remove the lid and the bottom, sink the upturned (narrow end) into the planting hole as you back fill the soil around the roots, this way you water the roots by filling up the container a few times to get water to the roots instead of the water running OFF the top soil and the new plants dying from drought, after a few years when the plants / trees are more mature and self sufficient, you can remove the container.
Hope you get the dream garden you are thinking about and just enjoy.
kindest Regards.
WeeNel.

Thanks, Diana and WeeNel. I greatly appreciate your comments and help. I can find a lot of books on plants, shrubs, and trees, but not many with practical design tips for a beginner like me. I had the local university do a soil test. It said I have clay soil, a ph of 7.1, and am low on magnesium. I was not sure whether I need to amend the soil ahead of planting or just when I plant, so I have already added some mushroom compost and will amend again at planting time. Thanks so much again! jdlcav

I would amend the soil AFTER you make your selection of plants / tree's etc, because you have clay soil, this does lack some nutrients and cant hold onto some plant feeds available from the stores, you would give the plants a better chance by amending either as you plant, or a whole area before you plant, it's very difficult to make amends or alter the soil construction (like adding grit for drainage)
AFTER the plants are set into the soil.
Once you find a plant you like, look up a plant encyclopaedia etc where it will give the temp, soil conditions and PH required for such.

dont forget to get tree supports also if planting those as for the first few years, these will help prevent the young tree's being rocked about in wind as this constantly loosens the roots, always check the tree ties every so often as the tree grows.

Good luck and happy gardening.
WeeNel.

Clay is a particle size, and does not tell you what nutrients are in the soil.
Clay soils hold water very well, so when you water you will not have to water again for quite a while.

Lack of magnesium can be corrected with something as simple as Epsom salt, or over a longer time with a dolomite sand or powder.

To improve clay soil add lots of organic matter. I would start now as you have done with the mushroom compost, and add plenty of it. Mulch the area, too, or allow the fallen leaves to stay on the soil, perhaps rototill them in. The more organic matter you can add, the better the clay soil will behave. As the organic matter breaks down it will help the clay soil clump together into little aggregates that will allow better air and water exchange in the soil, and encourage beneficial organisms from bacteria and fungi to earthworms.

Adding sand or 'grit' to correct a clay soil does not work well unless you can add a whale of a lot of it.

Not sure it is still in print ( it probably is ) but out of all the books I have bought...( A LOT) Landscape Plants of the Southeast by far my favorite. Trees and shrubs that do great. Characteristics height, spread,color, pests, etc., so you can make good choices.. Will help with choices for the layout as Diana suggested.

When I moved to NC ...that clay soil was something else to get used to....not so much the terra cotta colored stuff - which despite its reputation...trees and shrubs geared to this area and climate, adapt to ....but about a foot down..this foul smelling grey stuff...when the shovel hits it, the shock up the arm is unbelievable. Nothing to do but dig it out. You can amend it....but those roots are going to run into it at some point...and you can't amend it all. And so, I hope you don't have that. I think I ran into it in all the cleared areas around the house ...maybe the construction folks cleared off the good stuff. ...we live in a heavily wooded area and in the undisturbed
areas....the soil is fine.....lots of digging and planting depth and organic matter. Tree roots can be problematic and you may run into that as an issue but I bet you won't have issues with clay unless you are planting in an area where earth movers have cleared the land. I hope you post photos whe done. Good luck and happy planting. It is so worth it!