Questions on pruning young JM

Camden, AR(Zone 8a)

I am a newbie to JM - well, I have owned some in the past with little luck keeping them alive, but I have tried to research which ones will hold up to my heat better, etc. I have recently purchased two young Crimson Queens and 2 Orangeolas. Both are about 20 -24" tall. I had originally planned to place in the ground, but I have decided at least for now, to just place them in large decorative pots and see if I can get them established and find a location they are happy with. A couple of the young trees - I believe they are both the Crimson queen has some very long branches that are actually growing in a circular motion around the tree. My husband thinks I should "prune" them to the shape I want, but with only 4 or 5 limbs on the little trees at this point, I am not sure what to do.

Can someone offer suggestions?
Thank you!

Pepperell, MA(Zone 6a)

pictures always help.

Jacksonville, FL(Zone 9a)

Branches growing "in a circular motion" can be the result of the trees being crowded together in the nursery. The branches will grow every which way trying to find some space. I agree with your husband, it should be shaped but, like wha says, pictures help so the more experienced growers here can suggest just which branches to trim.

Camden, AR(Zone 8a)

OK, I am sure that would help. I looked at it last night and it is leafing out very well. Both Orangeolas have several leafs on them already but my Crimson Queens don't have any. I am headed out of town tonight for a long weekend with my family but I will try to get pictures at the first of next week. That also gives it a little more time to unwind :)

Thanks for the response!
Genna

Powder Springs, GA(Zone 7b)

I hope I am not intruding on this thread but I have a very large weeping cut leaf JM that is in need of a big haircut (about 7 feet tall and maybe 10 feet across and intruding on walls and front porch). When is the best time for pruning and what should one do to take it back a piece without looking like sheer butchery.

Thumbnail by hcmcdole Thumbnail by hcmcdole Thumbnail by hcmcdole
Milford, DE

I would trim the plant early spring 2 weeks before bud break. At this time you will be able to see exactly where you are cutting and you will only be looking at the cut ends for a couple of weeks. I have trimmed maples severely at times with great results but I only cut like this on a plant every 3-4 years and let it fill in. Maples are very resilient plants and bounce back quite well.

Dave

Powder Springs, GA(Zone 7b)

Thanks Dave. It is starting to leaf out now but I have removed dead branches and cut some of the top out before. On this it looks like it needs a hedger due to all the branches.

Here it is a couple of days ago.

Thumbnail by hcmcdole
Milford, DE

I would never use a hedger. All you need is a heavy duty bypass pruners and 30 minutes of time. Possibly a small bonsai saw with a 6" blade for several larger caliper branches. This way you can always select and choose which branch to trim and trim it at a location that is just above the collar of a branch. Trimming out some of the larger select branches will have that plant looking magnificent.

Dave

Powder Springs, GA(Zone 7b)

I think it is going to be longer than 30 minutes though. I will use hand pruners and a small saw then.

Williamstown, NJ(Zone 6b)

I trimmed a lot off mine this spring , but now that it is really leafed out I am seeing more branches that over lapping the lower ones. Should I trim the upper branch or the one underneath it?

Pepperell, MA(Zone 6a)

picture?

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