Hi all,
I have an enormous old Doritaenopsis that's been blooming spectacularly (and almost constantly) for years. It's one of those plants you want to keep at all costs. About a year ago, it developed scale, which I've kept under control by hand (w/ Q-tips soaked in rubbing alcohol). Although it's holding it's own, I'm concerned that this might be turning into one of those slow wars of attrition where the plant eventually winds up in the dustbin. In most cases I'm willing to accept a loss to avoid harsh chemicals, but for this particular plant, I'm considering "extreme measures". I'm curious if anyone might have a recommendation for a good systemic that I could use on a plant in orchid mix? Everything I've found so far seems to be delivered by mixing with soil.
Best,
Jan
Systemic insecticide for a Doritaenopsis?
Bayer Insect, Disease & Mite Control works well on most orchids. Keep in mind that orchids are more adept at leaf absorption that most other plants. That's what many of us use on our orchids, and you can buy it in a ready to use spray bottle, or a concentrate.
Thanks. I'll check it out. Although I'm curious if there isn't such a thing as a systemic insecticide (i.e. something I could water with or put in medium) for an orchid? My instinct is no, but it'd be real coup if I could find something akin to the Bayer 2-1 Systemic you can get for roses. The issue with sprays is winter -- for anything with a little punch, I feel like I should be in open air, which requires a trip out into the extreme cold for the plant (and myself). Neither one of us will be all that thrilled to be outside at 10 degrees. :)
Mine stay out year round, but some folks spray before bringing them in, and again as they take them back out for the summer. It lasts for months.
Fair point. I forgot about that. It's been a while since I've used anything stronger than alcohol or soap water. They work reasonably well, but it's a never-ending battle.
Would you be able to post a picture of it? Merely for my own education...very curious!
Karmatree --- Here is the best shot I have of it. I'm surprised, but I don't have a shot with multiple spikes (the real show). Next time it does, I'll post.
Wow, I couldn't ask for a better picture. That's a spectacular pink! Thanks :)
That is gorgeous. Don't blame you for being so cautious. Jen
Bayer is systemic that's why it lasts for many months. Best to saturate leaves, roots and potting mix. They live and breed all over the plant not just where you see them. Treatment should be done outside and in a bee and wasp safe area. You can return the plant indoors when dry. The active ingredient is extremely toxic to bees and has been named a primary culprit in much of the colony collapse today. I do treat my orchids twice, three weeks apart, as they go outdoors for the summer and twice again in autumn before they come in. I keep them covered while wet. The reason for treating twice is the eggs can stay dormant for extended periods making it hard to get control.
Just breaking into this forum so new guy on the block.
When I can't get the upper hand on bugs on an orchid I am really attached to, I mix up a whole bucket of Insecticidal Soap and drop the whole plant in, pot and all. Leave it for 10 or 15 minutes. You may have to do it a couple times but it won't harm the orchid and really works.
My problem with systemics is if you have your orchids in bark, there is no place for the systemic to grab on to - it just drains right out the bottom of the pot.
Daisy.
You are supposed to saturate the bark if the orchid is in bark. The active ingredients are absorbed by the plant leaves and roots and thus are long range systemics within the plant. Most of my orchids are mounted so there is certainly nothing for the spray to grab onto except the plant itself. The residual is effective up to three months. Depending on what you grow insecticidal soap can be toxic to certain orchids, especially more fragile species types, though it is certainly more environmentally friendly.
I am going to try of the Bayer Insect, Disease & Mite Control. I seem to be having a mealy bug, aphid and scale invasion right now. I think the ants are helping me out - they are invading too. Must be spring.
Daisy
I haven't read all of the posts but just a quick question: Have you tried Neem oil? I would think that would get them all.
Neem is not highly effective on the type of scale that orchid growers deal with... Boisduval scale. It's about the toughest to get rid of and something that Southern growers deal with. Since Neem has almost no residual effect it it does not address the issue of Boisduval eggs that will continue to hatch sequentially over a long period of time. The scale that you see on the plant is not what the males or midges look like. What you see is usually the female scale that has climbed the leaf or into leaf joints, built a shell, laid eggs and then died. There is more than one cure for Boisduval scale and growers generally alternate but the easiest and cheapest for home growers is Bayer. It might not be accessible in the future with a big movement to get it off the market.
Well Laurel, I looked for the Bayer 3 in l for something else someone told me about and I could not find it. So, if they are trying to get rid of it, they are doing a pretty good job of it. If you can't find it, you can't buy it
Here is as extensive article on the topic. https://www.sdstate.edu/ps/Severin-McDaniel/orchid-pests/upload/Boisduval-scale-on-orchids2.pdf At the end is a list of treatment options. Note the starred options are most effective. Imidacloprid is the active ingredient in Bayer 3 in 1. If you can't find a substitute with imidacloprid, see if you can locate an Orthene product with acephate listed as an active ingredient. I'm not sure where things stand with that. Here is an explanation of neonicotinoids http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neonicotinoid There is lots of information on the relationship between neonicotinoid based insecticide and the dire straights bees are facing. They've been used for broad spectrum treatment of orchard crops for years and since bees pollinate so many fruits they have decimated bee populations. Unfortunately these chemicals are not always handled with the seriousness they deserve. I always wear disposal gloves and a mask when I spray, remove my dogs from the area for the day and screen the orchids to prevent insect exposure.
I found Bayer 3 - 1 at Home Depot. From the amount of containers on the shelf, it didn't look like it was being discontinued. Maybe I'll go pick up a couple more. This is Nevada - I'm from California. I feel this state is often a day late and a dollar short in their thinking.
I have tried Neem on Orchids and it was pretty dismal as the orchids reacted badly. I had discoloration of leaves, black stems and a few deaths. I know Neem can't be used in hot weather or sunshine so that may have been my problem (California) - its hard to convince the sun not to shine.
I have used it successfully on pepper plants - first year without the dreaded aphid attach.
Thanks for the Severin-McDaniel link! Excellent info.
Carol, sorry for not responding. I wasn't following the thread since I thought the problem resolved. Scale is the orchid nemisis of thr right coast.