Training Young Trees

Training Young Trees for Structure and Form
This is a pretty informative video on training/pruning young trees (especially for the urban landscape). At the 18 minute mark, shows a study with results, giving a pretty convincing reason why we should think seriously on this subject.

Enjoy all you budding and accomplished Arborists!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHnv0AstLK4

Thanks, Mipii. I am determined to train my young red maple correctly, but worried that I'll screw up. I have printed instructions somewhere, but seeing the "5 steps" in the video helps.

You're welcome Muddy, have fun learning!

what an excellent article. I watched the first 20 min and will watch the remaining 35 tonight when I can watch slowly.

thanks for sharing the link.

Glad you're enjoying it Voss! I've watched it more than once.

I watched it twice already and a curious thing has happened: I'm noticing a lot of misshapened trees. There is limited awareness in my area about proper pruning or pruning at all. Seems like if we did a better job at this task we might not have so many downed trees during hurricane season.

You're right, urban trees need help from us to be in peak shape. When the tree is young, pruning is barely noticeable after a while. Pruning a mature specimen is much less attractive and greatly increases introduction to disease...it makes sense to me.

I trimmed one today, based on the UC video above and it looks pitiful. However, I know it was the right thing to do and confident it will pay off in the long run. I forgot to take a before pic, but I have taken the afters and will chronicle over the years for future reference and to share here.

I think UC has also put one on home orchard pruning, I need to ck it out. Too late for me this year, my fruit trees have broken dormancy and beginning to bloom. Im surprised they kept their schedule despite the unusually long, cold winter (for us in 9a TX).

Ha ha, I'm sure it looks pitiful right after the first pruning (big payoffs though). Once leafed out it'll look much better, after some new growth towards the end of the season it'll probably look great. Yes please keep us posted with chronicling, love to see the progression! Thanks Voss.

Shumard oak in Nov 2011, so pretty
after 2014 hatchet job
closeup

I'm not scared, I'm not scared, I'm not scared...

I realize 1/3 pruning is the prudent amount to do, but I've always overdone it with no consequences

I'm not scared...

Good job Voss, it looks like you were trying to establish a central leader. If I'm not mistaken, Quercus shumardii is supposed to be a pyramid shape.

If that was my tree, I would re-cut the lower cut so its closer to the trunk (just like the upper cut) and stake the selected leader to help it grow more upright/vertical. Although I don't have a 360 view like you do. Good timing too -- winter pruning (consistently below 60 deg.) works best for Oaks, helps to prevent invitation for Oak Wilt.

thanks for your input, I will neat up the cuts. As to the leader, I will, as an experiment, leave it alone to see if it straightens up by itself. I saw in that video where they did not stake a slanted leader and it was straight the following year. I was really surprise about that. As little as it is, I figure I can stake it a year later if it doesn't do it on its own.

Cool, independent thinker...I like that.

The art of pruning is lost on me, and I've ruined a few trees through imprudent pruning. I'm pretty much back to removing only dead or crossing branches. What you've done with this little tree may work out very well in the end, but I think I'd have left it alone. When it comes to pruning, my philosophy is be afraid, be very afraid.

All of Decumbent's exhortations were just lost on you, weren't they?

THAT'S another thread to resurrect - the one about the Parrotia pruning philosophy...

Yes, we need to get Scott back here to impart his pruning wisdom on us. He had the golden touch...

I'm a slow learner. Mr. Valley has been trying to teach me the finer points of pruning for years now, but I resist all efforts.

All is not lost, at least you got the basics -- dead, crossing branches and limbing up!

I'll admit that I'm very afraid I won't do it correctly when I prune my young maple, even though I watched the relevant part of the video. An arborist who looked at it really quickly (he was there for something else) told me I could leave it alone for a few years, but it looks to me as if I need to prune it earlier to establish a strong leader. So, if you all are willing, I'll take photos of it from various angles and solicit help on deciding how to prune it.

Absolutely Muddy...keep track of north, south, east and west sides for easier communication. Determine the height of what the lowest branch should be (if you want to get underneath it with a mower or grow turf etc.). The smaller diameter the pruned branches are, the less you can tell the tree has been pruned.

Thanks! Assuming the snow that's supposed to start tomorrow ends by the weekend, I'll get some photos then.

I took this pic today, in referenced to my little tree which I discussed on Feb 10th above. Mipii, I remember that on the pruning video you shared, there was a pic of a young tree with a leaning leader. It also showed a pic of its straightened out, 1-2 seasons later. I sure hope mine straightens out too, it looks kinda silly right now. I'm not scared....I'm not scared...

Vossner, you need to get that baby staked, to help it straighten out. Even a splinter on the bent side so you can put some pressure toward the way you want it to grow. If you get a chance, take a photo with the bend towards you. I'd like to see the length of the scaffold branches in relationship to the leader. Sure 'nuff is scary.

Vossner- that tree looks like it is pretty sturdy wood at the bend, I am not sure you can straighten it up even with staking, but you better try. The Feb photos show it in a relatively upright position, way more vertical than now. The weight of the new growth seems to be pulling it down.

I never got around to taking photos of my young red maple, but I did get around to removing the 2 lowest limbs. I was thinking of taking another one off soon, but I guess I should wait until it's dormant. I will get a photo of it...maybe tomorrow!

Summer is a good time to prune Maples, you'd want to avoid spring, well I do for my Sugar Maple because the sap really runs in the spring. I'm looking forward to seeing your photos Muddy, so good to see you back!

Here are photos of my Red Maple 'Red Sunset' that, while not as useful as photos before it leafed out would have been, show my main pruning question: do I need to prune some of the very top branches to maintain a good leader?

The first 4 photos show NE, S, S and NW sides of the tree. The tree is about 12' tall, and the lowest branch is 54" from the ground.

The last photo shows the very top of the tree, where the center leader is surrounded by about 5 branches that are at least as tall as it is. The point where the strong center leader splits into 5-6 branches is 9 feet from the ground.

When I took these, I saw that there is a wayward branch I need to prune (bottom right of photos 2 and 3), but I'm most concerned about maintaining a strong leader.

Also, does anyone know what caused the mottled bark? An insect bored into one of the lower branches all the way to the trunk and, after cutting it off and squirting insecticide in the hole, I poured Bayer's systemic insecticide at its base, so I hope it's okay.






This message was edited May 26, 2014 8:29 PM

Yes Muddy, there looks to be a few competing branches for the central leader. I would cut them back to 1/3 the length of the leader. I would also evaluate the radial spacing of the scaffold branches so that they are about 12 -18" apart and are placed in a fairly even radial pattern up the tree. Cut temporary branches (to be removed later) to about a foot from the trunk. As you get to the top it looks like a cluster of branches, so remove to the trunk those that aren't congruent with the pattern.

Cut back your wayward branch depending on where it lands in the pattern as well. If it's to be removed, cut it a foot from the trunk. If its a permanent scaffold branch, cut it back to the length of the other branches relative to its placement.

I wish I could help you out with the stem borer but I'm betting you did what would be recommended.

Thanks, Mipii. Is there a particular way I need to cut back the competing branches, or can I just lop off 2/3 of their lengths with a pole trimmer?

An arborist who was checking on the crew cutting down my silver maple spotted the branch with the stem borer and had the crew cut the branch. I'm glad he saw it, because I had missed it.

What about the mottled pattern on the trunk; is that a concern?

Yes Muddy, just use your pole trimmer...depending on the size of the branches. I prefer a hand saw or a sawzall (reciprocating saw with a wood blade) myself. One thing to keep in mind is to cut at an angle just above/beyond a leaf bud, leaf or stem. The placement of the bud dictates the direction of the new growth. If the stem or bud is on the left side of the branch, that is where the new growth will continue.

I often use the ability to direct the growth to areas that could use more branching for better symmetry. As always, before you take on a pruning project, remove dead or damaged wood first...then evaluate what and where to cut next.

Have fun!

Thanks for the tips!

The branches are so thin that I probably could use a lopper or even hand pruners; the problem is reaching them. I guess I'll have someone hold a ladder while I prune so I can make careful cuts. There's just enough slope on the lawn to make standing on a ladder a risky business!

Film it.

At least then, you'll have notoriety (and maybe some cash) if things go awry...

Really enjoyed this video. I had been wanting to learn more and I love it that it's organized into a 5 step plan. Thanks for posting.

You're welcome Steady, may you always have healthy trees!

I have it when I read over/skip postings.

mlmlakestevens, I completely overlooked your posting. Don't know what made me re-read the thread but had it not been for your comment, I wouldn't have noticed how my little tree was bending even from from the weight of the foliage.

Hubby installed a splint to start correcting the leaning leader.

oops forgot the pic

Hubby did a great job Vossner, good luck with the straightening effort.

Muddy, be very careful with that ladder...I don't want to see you on a youtube video.

There's been some straightening of the keader, evidenced by the slack on the rope. So DH tightened it today. Still looks silly but making progress