Article on White Grub Control

Trumbull, CT(Zone 7a)

I found it interesting that several grub control products are not effective once
an infestation is in place:
http://extension.umass.edu/turf/fact-sheets/current-insecticide-approaches-white-grub-control

Ayrshire Scotland, United Kingdom

I have to admit, I too found this quite interesting however, I know there are many, many, grubs that visit our gardens and can cause a whole lawn to die, there are others that can infest a hole orchard of fruit and there are others that eat the roots of certain plants while ignoring others, believe me if you get an infestation of the grub that eat the lawn roots while awaiting maturity, then I have to tell you, these white grubs can be killed off while still underground and long before they are able to flee away as an adult jenny long legs, at that stage they breed, lay more grub eggs and if left they restart the cycle all over again moving onto another lawn.

So yes there are many grubs that cant be dealt with at certain times in their life cycle but done at the right time, believe me, MOST can be killed off. depending IF you want to go down the chemical or other predator route.

Good luck and happy gardening.
Best Regards. WeeNel.

Contra Costa County, CA(Zone 9b)

Killing any pest is a matter of having enough control material in contact with the pest.

This applies most obviously with pesticide: If you can apply enough of the right product it can kill the pest.

It also applies to natural controls: If you can get a large enough population of predators, they can put a very serious dent in the pest population.

However, there are side effects and other issues to consider.

With pesticides the article you linked included some comments about their use, 'such as cannot be used on school grounds,' and 'very soluble in water'. Yes, indeed. What are the side effects of using the pesticide in large enough amounts to control the pest. Timing is everything when the pest has such as distinct life cycle. Hit it at the right time, with the right material and the side effects are minimized while the control is maximized.

With predators or a disease that attacks the pest, what will these organisms be doing the rest of the year, after they have killed off a large % of the pest? Predatory bugs with nothing to eat go elsewhere, and usually do not come back. This may still be a preferred control method. But you will have to carefully plan to purchase new predators each year.

Ayrshire Scotland, United Kingdom

Never said a truer word Diana, I absolutely agree BUT, you last comment in my estimation is just as important to note, "you have to remember to purchase new predators" how very true, but on the other methods, you have to remember to buy more chemicals as the bugs are a new seasons offspring and they don't know IF the year before there type were sprayed to death or eaten by predators, everyone just has to choose which type of pest reduction they feel safer with or prefer.
I know that the land we took over has had no chemicals use on it for over 30 odd year that I know of and probably longer and I would hat these practises to become the norm after I'm long gone BUT as a last resort I have used this on small areas that nothing else was working.

I live atop a cliff looking out to see and we have water courses on the land and I hate to think that my use of chemicals would contribute to any run off via waterways and then ending up out at sea where untold damage could be done, BUT like we have both intimated, it's all a matter of choice, needs, and knowledge.
Happy gardening and Best Regards.
WeeNel.

Contra Costa County, CA(Zone 9b)

I also minimize pesticide use.
Some things that contribute to my success at relatively pest free gardens:

ONE: DO NOT OVER WATER.

TWO: DO NOT OVER FERTILIZE

When the plants are watered and fertilized to the point of being soft and lush, pests arrive daily for the banquet. If the plant has natural pest control (it develops its own oils etc) these oils are diluted by the excess growth.

Keeping the plants right at the edge of stress by being dry minimizes the pests. This does not mean the plants are wilting between each deep soaking, but close to it. Then the growth has whatever oils or stuff the pests do not like in enough quantity that the pests stay away.

Ayrshire Scotland, United Kingdom

Wise words of advice Diana, hope there are loads of gardeners who read your helpful advice and info, they wont go far wrong if they take the help you offer.
best regards.
WeeNel.

Enterprise, AL

Chickens if you can have them....if not....see above.

Trumbull, CT(Zone 7a)

Another article with similar information and a list of times to put different products down:
http://turf.msu.edu/home-lawn-grub-control-products-2/

Trumbull, CT(Zone 7a)

Another article from my state:
http://www.ct.gov/caes/cwp/view.asp?a=2815&q=376940

Contra Costa County, CA(Zone 9b)

Timing is very important. Often, the department of agriculture or similar organization will monitor the populations of pests and try to help determine the appropriate timing.
Homeowners can monitor their own gardens, too, using the same techniques.
Knowing when to do each type of control will give you the best control of the pests.

As noted in that last link, not all controls work for all the different species of pests, even closely related pests.

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