flower garden design help

We have a new flower bed in front of the house. I am going to take out the salvia, dahlia, bee balm & lavender then fill with compost and try to refill with some flowers that will give us color for the rest of the year - in Maine, zone 5.

Any suggestions?

The flowers I am taking out are not doing so well (except the dahlia). My DH will only be home for a few weeks this summer and I would love to have some flowers in the bed for him to enjoy (especially since he made the stone border!)

There is a small cedar in the circle part of the stone border...not sure if it is going back or not.

what type of soil are you using in the beds now?

I am sure others in your zone/area will help out with long blooming flower suggestions.

I use a long blooming plant for color that is deer resistant and an annual in my area - lantana. It blooms right up until a freeze. has a nice sprawling habit too and smells good.

I wanted to suggest you consider a long blooming vine on a tall and narrow trellis up against the wall nearest to the shutter in the photos foreground. Would look good in that spot, provide vertical interest and color, and really add to the overall selection of flowers you choose. I have a similar raised bed as you do on the house corner with a Rose of Sharon that has gotten huge. I am planning on replacing it. Another area --again with a raised planter just like yours and where I have similiar utilities on the house I planted an evergreen cryptomeria to screen the utilities. It is soft and feathery looking.

If you plant the beds well by doing lots of research, then you can have borders with colour ALL year rounf whether its by using flowers, different coloured foliage or plants that have coloured stems, the secret is to try mixtures of these. there are as many shades of green as there are hot dinners and not only green, but there are hundreds of different textures too, as for flowers, personally dont see anything wrong with the plants you want to remove, I think they are maybe just growing next to stuff thats not too exciting and not helping sell them to you. Things like Lavender help keep flies away, they are an asset when planted close to a path or edge where you walk by and brush against them, the perfume comes back at you and scents the air.

You need to give more info re where North or South is, how much time you have to spend on caring for the garden and how large is your budget, however the budget can be broken up into sections as you get spare cash. you need also to buy a soil testing kit from garden store (a few dollars and no more) these kits are great for telling you what type of soil you have (The soil PH) this can help the plant selection as not all plants grow in the same type of soil like Lavenders prefer a very sunny place but poorer soil whereas, Dahlias need an enriched humus soil to perform well.
Can you send us more info like sun / shade morning / afternoon, then some plant lists can be sent out to you on the thread and there will be a wider veriety of ideas for you to think about.
Good luck. WeeNel.

Do you pull out the Dahlia in the fall to store inside in the winter or do you use it as an annual?

Depends on the type of Dahlia you have, the annual type are grown from seed or cuttings from the previous summers bedding plant type.

The other type that you lift and store are tuberous Perennials and in milder areas, can be left in the ground with a mulch for protection, this type needs prepared for storing over winter as if you just lift them and keep all the soil around the tuber, rot will set in and you will loose the plant over winter.

Best wishes. WeeNel.

I love your bed and I hope you take your time planning what to plant. Fill it up with good compost and apply the mulch after you had planted .

Hosta would do well in Maine and there are varieties that are sun tolerant.

Good luck and check out my garden " Belles haven" garden 2013.

Belle

Thanks everyone :) Here is some more information -

I am keeping what I pulled out, just filling up another bed with it all :) My DH would like more color out front and what I had really just did not look good, especially with how I placed it.

This bed faces west, has sun from noon until sunset. I am filling the bed with compost (from a local landscaper) tomorrow (just hooked the trailer up - yeeeha!)

I am at a loss as to how to fill the circle on the end, provide bright ongoing color and have it looking nice....this bed is kinda stressing me out lol because I want DH to be happy with it.

Suggestions on how to lay this out would be very, very appreciated. I will check into the trellis idea, not sure if that will fit my budget though. I can buy plants that are $10+/- like daylillies, veronica etc....the trellis' that I saw were $20+ and I am not sure where I can find vines right now. (I have canaray creeper and morning glories all over our porch though...hmmmmm maybe I can move them)

I saw rose bushes are marked down right now, what do you folks think of a rose bush in the circle on the end?

Just cannot seem to visualize how the end circle part will fit in...and I sure don't want to pull plants out again :/ Felt pretty sad doing that this evening...but having good soil in it tomorrow is something to look forward to!

ps - the dahlias (I believe they are, the name had dinnerplate in it) are tubers. I just bought them a few weeks ago and am excited about them producing more each year :)

Landscape design concepts:

1) The circle is the focal point. Put the best thing there.

2) There is a blank wall behind the circle, and between the windows along the narrow part of the planter.

VERY roughly: many plants get ABOUT as tall as they get wide.

Use colored leaves as well as flowers to extend the season.
Select plants with nice fall color (yellows, reds).
Do not get too busy with too many species and varieties. Use the shrubs as a background. A showy, nice looking background.
Add seasonal color in patches, not the whole area. Perhaps arrange 3-5 bare areas near the front, and add color there. Use different plants each year until you figure out what works best. If you really like getting out in the garden and doing things then these areas can be larger.

1a) Tall focal point in circle, with some lower plants near the house, and some trailing things near the edge. The trailing things can be annuals.
Focal point:
Dwarf Japanese Maple (select one that grows about 5-6' tall)
Certain flowering fruit trees- look for smaller varieties, not over 20'. Flowering Cherry, Crabapple, Hawthorn...
Lilac (large shrub, thin the lower part to train it to become a multi-trunked small tree)
Pussy Willow

1b) A few nice shrubs behind/under the focal point, mostly no larger than about 3':
Weigela (dwarf types)
Spiraea (research the varieties- the lowest may make a nice foreground plant, near the front of the circle)
Forsythia- but only the smallest ones. Most get WAY too big.

1c) Shrubs or perennials for the front of the circle- do some of the circle with these shrubs, leaving gaps for seasonal color:
Euonymus fortunei 'Ivory Jade'
Ilex crenata (only the lowest varieties)
Flowering Carpet Roses
Day lilies
Iberis sempervirens
Salvia nemerosa


2a) Tall plants for between the windows:
Larger varieties of Weigla, Spiraea, Forsythia
Mid-sized Lilac, Ilex,

2b) Shorter plants for under the windows:
Bush roses
Smaller varieties (could match the small shrubs in the circle): Weigela, Spiraea.

Beelady, the tuberous Dahlia's you have purchased , type Dinner plate are beautiful,
The name dinner plate refer's to the size of the flowerheads on these plants, Large, double flowers that are wonderful to take indoors for a vase, just make sure you dont take bugs inside with them.

As for the Roses being on offer right now, this is normal at this time of year as the store has ordered too many OR not sold enough, anyhow, they stick them on offer in the hope everyone will grab them,they do just that but dont realise the Roses very rarely survive as it really is not the best time to plant Roses or shrubs of any kind due to the hotter weather, these type of plants have a hard time being planted into warm soil and have to try grow, produce flowers, make fresh growth, keep healthy greenery AND make new roots to get the p[lant good footing for winter coming.

Best time for these type of plantings is summer's end or wait till early spring, end of summer the shrubs are slowing down getting ready for winter sleep (IN MOST CASES) this helps the plant to get established faster as it is not fighting to stay alive while roasting in hot weather, the same applies to early spring, the plants are wakening up after winter rest period, are ready to form new foliage and make flowering buds, but they will also have time to form new roots to help them search out wider roots for water, this helps to make for stronger growth all round.

When preparing your soil for planting, add as much humus / animal manures (well rotter) my first choice is horse manure that has been rotted down first for best part of a year. This muck /humus helps add air into the soil, helps hold onto moisture after you water, gives nutrients to the plants and makes the soil easier to manage and dig. all your plantings will thank you for this additive, most horse places, (riding schools Stables are happy to let you take as much as you want free of charge, to tell IF it is rotted down enough, there should be slight smell when disturbed but NO strong smell like the horse has just poo'ed, it should crumble in your hand like nice healthy compost and IF possible, lay about 6-8 inches along the whole bed and then dig this into the soil.
No matter where you get compost / manures from ALWAYS ask where it came from unless you go pick it up yourself. There are dreadful tales going right now of human sewage being sold as compost, this might well be fine BUT along with that can come hospital waist too, I'm not trying to frighten you or anyone else reading this thread but I am asking you to ask questions where the compost has came from so you know what you are going to be handling as lets face it, we dont all use gloves, I hate gloves as I like my hands in my soil even for potting or seed sewing I dont use gloves. Your paying for the compost or using the manures so go look at it or ASK where it's came from.

Yous going to be busy but take your time, it will pay off in the end, the plants will settle better and you will get to know your selected plants better as you feel them, lay them all out on the prepared bed where you want them to grow, remember they will get larger in a year or 2 so don't crush them all together, you can always move the plants around till you feel they are in the right place BEFORE you dig them in and you dont have to have All the tall plants at the back of the border, it's nice to look through plants to get a nice surprise at the plants behind.
Good luck and best wishes. WeeNel.

Lots of good suggestions here, and I especially like Diana's landscape design concepts...

That long stretch of the bed is fairly narrow, but even so, resist the temptation to line things up in a row. Think in "clumps" or "groups" of plants... A shorter perennial like lavender, plus two taller perennials, like bee balm and a taller daylily, positioned to the left & right as well as slightly behind the lavender... repeat the pattern at intervals, groups of 3 planting holes in a triangle with the point toward the front, a shorter plant, two taller plants...

You can fill in with annual color between your groups of 3 perennials, giving you a chance to change up the design with different flowers each year. The spaces between the pairs of taller plants along the back may eventually fill in as the plants grow, but you should continue to have space along the front, between your shorter perennials.

When you're thinking "taller," take your windows into account... "medium" height perennials under the windows (something that smells good, too!), taller ones against the blank walls.

You can also reverse those triangular plantings to accommodate a larger shrub or perennial... Plant a taller thing at the back (centered on those blank walls, maybe), and then flank it with two shorter perennials in front.

To add height to the area between the windows without waiting for vines or tall plants to grow, consider using large planters. My Costco has big 22 inch ones (plastic but look nice, must drill holes for drainage) for $16-20. You could even put your focal point plant in a large planter, then use 2 slightly smaller ones in the border between the windows.

Don't try to fill the whole bed, especially since you want to use perennials that will grow much larger with time. Planning and planting in small groups of plants will give you a more cohesive look, even if there are gaps between that are simply top-dressed with mulch.

OK, that's all this cuppa coffee was good for! LOL

Hyacinth bean planted each year (save seeds from year to year) will cover a trellis in no time and like Critter suggests can be grown from a pot. In the winter the large decorative pot would substitute for color and interest. Be sure pot winter tolerant. Even in a short summer season, it will provide a riot of color for a very long time until frost. The pods are outstanding, the leaf a beautiful color and shape. Flowers are great too. When I lived in city - folks would knock on door to ask about vine. Some would steal the pods!

This message was edited Jul 13, 2013 2:04 PM

It is coming along! Getting ready to choose plants :)

Looks good - what do you do -- poke holes. In fabric? How do your plants seed, spread and fill in?
Exciting to start with clean slate! I hope it turns out great

The plan (right now haha) is to cut X's in the fabric where the plants will go. I am thinking perennials in this garden so I don't need to mess with it too much each year. I would appreciate advice on the fabric...hoping a big X will allow the perennial to grow. Since I am mulching over the fabric I think re-seeding is not an option...

A big X is the way to go. If you can get some special pins to pin the fabric back down pretty close to where it was then it will stay down. Without the pins it will tend to creep up through the mulch. Pin the X near the plant, and pin the edges. Do not allow the mulch to creep under the edge. Once the edge gets lifted it is almost impossible to put it back down.

Ask for the pins under several names like:
Jute Netting Pins
Sod Staples
and look for them with drip irrigation stuff, too.

The pins ought to be about 6" long. Might be J shaped, just a hook and only one leg or they might be U shaped, both legs about 6" long. Either type will work, though I prefer the U shaped pins.

I am impressed!! It is very neat and clean!!

Belle

Thanks for all of the advice & encouraging comments everyone!! I have never been able to complete a garden like this, it is very exciting although slightly stressful since my DH is such a perfectionist lol For years I have just planted what I have, am given or find at a good price and take my time with things. I have never worried about a layout, just fit plants in as I see fit at the time. This garden spot is a whole different thing!

Well enjoy it Bee and post photos. It will be great. The garden evolves...thing outgrow their space despite our best planning ...-things die... Bugs come....we just need a change .....whatever...... You will find that your anxiety will decrease as you realize it is not a "marriage" but just a "date!"

This message was edited Jul 17, 2013 10:25 PM

LOL Missing Rosie!

I went to the nursery and found (what I hope to be) great color against our white home. I spent 2 hrs going through what they had and making a 15' layout on the floor :) Pretty glad they didn't mind and some folks offered comments which was helpful and encouraging!

The plants - a shorter version of a Purplish pink Echinacea, plus a taller version, some reddish yellow Arizona blanketflower, some gorgeous deep red orangeberry coneflowers, some coreopsis that are a creamy white with purple centers, purple veronica...and a rose bush.

I already put them in!

Pics from the ride home -

Sounds lovely. Winning color combination.

Saw the photos! What a haul! It will look so nice. I am excited for you. I hope you will consider the hyacinth bean vine, its fuchsia pods will glow along with your other plants. Don't spend $$ on trellis build your own from 2 narrow wood uprights with chicken wire stapled across both for center. Set it behind a pot and plant beans in the pot. You will get tons of pods - sell some and buy some more plants! No pets munching on pods!

The next step...

I used the triangle suggestion mentioned above & have both light and dark tall echinaceas - Laid out like -

Echinacea - short
Veronica
Echinacea - tall w/ 2 orangeberry coneflowers in front
Veronica
Echinacea - tall w/ 2 blanket flowers in front
Echinacea - short
Echinacea - tall w/ Coreposis in front
Echinacea short
Echinacea - tall w/ Coreopsis in front
Veronica
Echinacea - tall w/ 2 orangeberry coneflowers in front
Veronica
Echinacea - tall w/ 2 blanket flowers in front
Rose bush

I have appreciated all of the notes and advice so much! I will take photos tomorrow after I mulch. I hope DH likes them!!

I will try the hyacinth bean vine for sure, plus we have an old lantern post that needs covering - sounds like it would work nice there, too. Do you think it is too late this year to try it? Our growing season is not very long :( I live in Maine, zone 5

ps - I have not done anything with the circle yet. I am broke lol. (Plus my veggie garden is in desperate need of attention)

I am wondering if I should carry the same idea of flowers to the circle or do something different. I think the center is going to be a cedar of some sort - not the Christmas tree shape though, and probably not a weeping - but something to grow tall enough to hide the utilities and to stay green year round....

So many thoughts.....

Yes too late for H Bean because you need to get the pods matured.

I think similar design would look great carried into circle with taller evergreen as anchor. Agree not weeping but why not Christnas tree shape?

You got some great long blooming plants, the key is deadheading or taking a few blooms from the plants for the vase too.

Some other great plants you might consider are Daisies, Salvia nemerosa(white, purple and pink), Catanche carulea(18" white or purple), Scabiosa (many heights to choose from (white or purple from 12"-36" and S. ochulara yellow at 18"), Achilea milefolium or ptarmica The Pearl(yarrow, but not the reseeders (you don't want these they take over)), Geums, Campanulas from groundcovers to 18" have most of the long season blooms, Penstemon two great all season bloomers are Red Rocks and Pikes Peak Purple (12-18"), Coreopsis grandiflora, Dianthus X Loveliness is a blooming machine at 18", Rudbeckias, Centaureas, perennial geranium Rozanne blooms all season, Gaura lindheimeri if hardy for you, Heuchera, Oenothara Siskyou, Origanum Kent Beauty, Delphinium grandiflora(18" all season and reseeds nicely), hemerocalis look for rebloomers ie Stella doro in gold or purple, Knautia macedonica (red/maroon scabiosa type flowers), Verbena Homestead Purple, you probably live in a zone that would grow Osteospermum (the perennial form Z 4-6 only). Hope that gives you a few more ideas.
1.Penstemon Red Rocks
2.Dianthus X Loveliness on the left, coreopsis grandiflora in the rear
3.Scabiosa columbaria
4.Osteospurmum Lavender Mist
5.Geum Mrs. Bradshaw with Stachy's (July only)

Not sure about the Christmas tree shape...I am hoping I can find a tree that stays green and has more character. More bonsai-ish if possible.

These flower suggestions look great, too! Maybe I will get the circle garden finished this month!

Here are some pics from the garden with the mulch, just mulched it this morning :)

Just joined and saw your post from July. How did the garden do and what did you plant in the circle. Not sure about specifics for growing in your state but I agree with the prev. poster that a Japanese maple would have been nice. I have two and planted them in a large containers with drainage holes and planted them in ground to soil level and they are growing well and get thicker but can be moved within the first 2-3 years if you decide you don't like the look until the pot becomes composted. You need something catchy in that circle as a focal point as pampas grass or a hydrangea , and it is good to remember to plant in pattern of "3"s and add some "hardscape" too as maybe a birdbath or a "bottle tree" would be good and add interest and color. I also have a "red-hot poker that adds large grass like feature but grows beautiful flower spikes in the summer and they bend and curve like a "space alien" and you cut the spikes back hard after the bloom in prep for more spikes. Research bottle tree and you may end up placing one of them thee with a few colored wine bottle/beer bottles and odd bottles to keep the "haints" out of your home (research bottle tree for lore) if you use the blue bottles. Good luck and post more pics.

HI!

I took a break for a while and now this spring am trying to bring this flower bed back. My father passed and then the following year, almost to the day, my DH passed. I completely neglected this flower bed. I am excited to bring it back now though.

DH brought home a false cypress which I planted in the circle on the end. After he passed in 2015 the tree also passed :( I am in the process of filling the bed with a compost/manure mix and will go tree/bush/idea searching very soon. Any suggestions? I could use them :D I live in Maine, zone 5.

I am now also trying to distinguish weeds/perennuials in the bed. Any help with this wouldbe greatly appreciated. I will post pics