rubus probus or atherton raspberry

I would like to hear from anyone successful in starting the seeds. I have so far stratified 2 months at 79 degrees F and now plan to stratify until Jan 15 in the refrigerator and then plant. I thought
maybe warm days and cooler nights? The seeds are so tiny I would hate to lose track of them waiting to see if they sprout. Is this a good game plan or should I change it up? I would like folks to
be able to email me if that is permitted. I would love to exchange pictures etc. but don't know how to get any pictures on any site I will use other than regular email with our mac. I guess in
windows it is easy. Also mysore thrive here. Would they also thrive where the Athertons grow? That will give me a much clearer picture of climate there.

I don't know the plant at all Sharna but if you contact Daley's on this site.
http://www.daleysfruit.com.au/bushfood/Athertonrasp.htm.
They may be able to give you some advice...or put you in touch with someone who can.
They grow all different types of fruit.....

As far as your problem with pics, contact DG at the bottom of this page, they will help you with any probs, posting pics.
Dianne.

Hi, I have grown raspberries and boysenberries from seeds before, and they seem to be quite easy to grow.
They however do take quite a while to become fruit bearing plants from seed (as leat 3 years), where as a cutting from a boysenberry can produce fruit in 6 months.

I have just finished growing yellow raspberry seeds, and they are doing great.
I first prepared a sprouting box. This is a polystyrene box that has sand and cow poop in it. The seedlings need good drainage and the cow poop makes them have a good growth spurt. This should be done a few months beforehand as the cow poop really needs to be broken down and decomposed. I had previously used that box for pepino seeds and parsley seeds.

Then you get your seeds, mine were from eBay.
I got 10 seeds, to which 9 sprouted.
The seeds are tiny so they were put in a 2mm trench and back filed, but if you water them too much they will float to the surface.
The key is to have a damp soil mixture but not wet, they don’t need to be watered that much.
I placed the box in a shaded area in a sheltered position from wind and severe sun.

After a few weeks they sprouted and I left them to grow and thin themselves out.
I left them in the sprouting box for around 12 months; I was left with 4 large plants.
They were 15cm tall plants. When transplanting small plants they seem to suffer badly from transplant shock, that’s why I only transplant them when they are mature, this way you won’t loose any plants.
I placed them into individual pots.
I am now letting them grow a little more and hoping that there soft stems will thicken up and turn into hard wood so next year I can hope to see some fruiting canes.
I am trialling one in a open garden bed to see if I can trick it into hardening off quicker, this plant is growing in the sun – which it dint overly like a first but is now doing fine, the others are still in a shaded and protected side of the house.

I will add some pictures of my plants for you later on :)

Boysenberries in flower

Germinated seedlings

Little plants

Sprouting box, note that other seedlings grow a lot faster than the yellow raspberries

This message was edited Nov 9, 2011 12:23 PM

Transplanted plants
First in the garden bed

The other 3 are in pots

Today’s photos, the garden bed raspberry is doing the best!

Potted raspberry

i have raspberry, Boysenberries and Gooseberry
all will be taken up after this summer season as i proffer not to have the trouble of runners in my garden. and on the other hand i could plant 3-4 Brugmansia in there place
have fun with the Rubes species