Tomato Problems

In this photo you'll see four tomato plants. The green stakes mark the plants. (The tallest thing is pole beans.) From front to back they are two "Champion", a Brandywine", and a "Purple Calabash". The Brandywine and Calabash are o.k. but the Champions are scrawny. I have grown Champions before and they have done all right in the past. They are not growing much and the leaves are small and have yellowish spots. I have given them epsom salts and an organic plant food (1-3-1 ?). This is the area where we usually have the garden, but I try to rotate things and the garden sat fallow all last year. I have had nematode problems in the past but the reason I planted the Champion is because they are nematode resistant. What do you think is wrong with these plants?

leaves on one plant

leaves on the other plant

Kelli, I can't diagnose your tomato problem.

But, one thing I'd like to point out is your use of palm fronds on the pathways. I've been growing Sago Palms as a hobby, and would like to advise that I'd NEVER use palm or cyclid fronds anywhere near my growing soil as they are very prone to having leaf scale, which can get into your soil as well and attack tender plants, like your tomatoes.

Just a thought...

O.K. Thanks for the tip. Can I put the palm fronds in the compost pile?

I never did, and I wouldn't recommend it unless your pile heats up enough to kill the bugglies. I bagged mine and put it in the trash. Also, leaf scale from palms/cyclids can be airborne...

Questions:
1) When did you plant these - how was the garden soil prepared?
2) How were they planted...how much Epsom Salts were used - where was it put (hole or mixed in soil)?
3) What's the watering routine - drip, overhead, how often?
4) Use any other insecticides, products or fertilizers?
5) Have you observed any insects with piercing/chewing mouth parts on them? Insects carry viruses
from plants in brushy area nearby to your garden.
6) Nematodes could very well be the problem - you might want to dig up one of the plants to check for
nematode root galls - then you'd know for sure. Nematode resistance just means the variety can,
under the right conditions, survive and produce. Once you remove the plant also cut a cross section
of the main stem close to ground level - if the interior contains a dark ring or tissue it would indicate a
vascular disease. All prevent water and nutrient trans-location stunting the plant.

Tommie

1) I'm pretty sure they were planted in May. I dug a planting hole for each about 16 inches wide by maybe a foot deep. To the soil I removed I added a gallon of compost and a cup of the 1-3-1 plant food and mixed it all together and put it back in the planting hole. The plants are mulched with old wisteria and crepe myrtle leaves, which I have done for years. (The palm fronds were an afterthought.) The soil is naturally clay-ey and somewhat alkaline.
2) The Epsom salts were added in June, probably about a half cup per plant. It was sprinkled on the ground around the plants.
3) The sprinklers are of the same kind used to water the lawn except the sprinkler heads are about a foot off the ground. We water when it looks like it needs it, which is usually twice a week for 20 to 45 minutes.
4) No insecticides have been used recently. Earlier in the spring some slug bait was scattered around for the radishes. Last week I sprinkled some 3-5-3 plant food around the tomato plants. Roundup has not been used around this area in years.
5) Have seen no insects
6) I will dig up at least the smaller of the plants if they don't respond soon to the plant food.

HALF A CUP of Epsom salts around each plant? Uh, I don't know about that one... The most I've ever used was maybe 1 tablespoon per plant...

How'd you come up with that measure?

This message was edited Aug 9, 2011 11:12 AM

I have never seen a recommended amount so I just guessed. I've used that amount for years and that's what I put around the rose bushes, too. It's not and exact measure. It's three or four handfuls, which might be more like 1/4 cup.

ok.