How much 41% Glyphosate to make brush killer?

I have heard of using a stronger amount of RU in water in order to make it an effective brushkiller. Anyone know how much? Thanks.

I use a product that is 44% glyphosate.

For Lonicera maackii and other woody invasives, apply 25%/75% mixture of concentrated glyphosate with water to freshly cut exposed cambium. The key is: apply immediately after the cut, not several minutes later or otherwise.

Interestingly, I just looked up the ready-to-use versions of Roundup (regular grass & weed killer) and Roundup (the brush killer variety) on Scott's website, and regular Roundup actually has twice as much glyphosate as the brush killer one does (2% vs 1%). The brush killer one also has 0.1% triclopyr (which is also the active ingredient in Ortho Brush-B-Gon) so I think that the triclopyr may be more important than the concentration of the glyphosate. (Brush-B-Gon is 0.7% triclopyr, no glyphosate)

Yes, the devil is in the details - or, in this case, the clues are in the chemistry.

Triclopyr and glyphosate are really different herbicides. Triclopyr acts on most broadleaf plants; glyphosate is non-selective in its action on green plant tissues. Triclopyr can have persistence in the soil and translocate to non-target plants. Glyphosate readily binds to soil particles and does not have persistence in the soil. These statements apply to these pesticides WHEN APPLIED ACCORDING TO LABEL DIRECTIONS. Lots can go wrong when the pesticide is used improperly.

The low percentages in ready-to-use formulations (I call them over-the-counter pesticides) are for the safety of the public users, who are assumed to have no training or knowledge of these chemicals. Higher concentration formulas are supposed to only be available to individuals with licensing, training, and certification - who should know how to properly store, handle, mix, and apply these pesticides legally and safely.

A higher concentration of pesticide applied does not necessarily equal more effective kill of the target. It usually just means wasted pesticide and environmental pollution.

I am wanting to kill a viciously thorny rose bush that is eaten up with seedling hackberries. It's a problem area. I plan to replace the rose with something tough but easy to get into to remove weeds.
I guess I should just go ahead and use Ortho, huh? I want scorched earth in this spot.
I have both the Ortho and RU. But I was thinking I could get it down to just one product to take care of all my weed slaughtering needs.

Glyphosate and triclopyr products are the best (singularly or in combination) for that which your dark heart desires...

You'd have a dark heart too if you had the mess I have. But never fear....I will prevail. Know anyone selling enriched plutonium?

Ah - the truth emerges.

You are after spontaneous Bumelia née Sideroxylon spp. mutations...

Now, that would be cool.
But now I'm thinking I should only use RU since it wouldn't poison the soil right? So according to the dilution rate you gave above I would need to use a quart of RU conc. per gallon of water?

That sounds about right. Remember though - that's the rate at which to apply to CUT STUMPS.

If you are planning on spraying "over the top" on foliage, DO NOT USE THIS RATE. That would be totally unnecessary.

For further reconnaissance of current best practices, I recommend visiting websites of The Nature Conservancy or the Southeast Exotic Pest Plant Council (or your state chapters of either organization). These groups have been on the front lines of research and battling the problem plants, and have most of this down to the nth degree of efficacy.

Eliminate the pest, and do no/little harm to everything else.

Well, I do want a separate spray for cut stumps also. So I guess I'll have to mark my sprayers 'x', 'xx', and 'xxx'.
I'll check out those links. Thanks.