Help on when to plant

Dayton, OH

I have a couple peony's coming in the mail in late April, but I was wondering if I should change the ship date maybe to early April instead, but don't know if that will to early to plant. Could someone tell me which is best. I live in Zone 5

Salem, IL(Zone 5b)

From what I have learned from the experienced peony growers, it is much more important as to how they are planted rather than when. All things being otherwise equal, plant them as quickly as the ground thaws. They will benefit by being in the ground.

Dayton, OH

Thanks, Rose better get those peonies here earlier rather than later.

(Mary) Anchorage, AK(Zone 4b)

You know, it really confuses me. Most places I get my peonies from say they will only ship in the fall as that is the best time to plant peonies. they are shipped dormant, but have time to grow a little in the ground. And yet, there are (presumably) reputable growers who ship in spring? Does anyone know what gives?

Kansas City, MO

What gives is some growers have cool storage facilities that allow over wintering. The operable words are "fall is the best time to plant" that does not mean it is the only time to plant.

In the fall if planted early enough small white roots will emerge from the mother plant. If planted early enough these will obtain extra nourishment from the surrounding soil. If these roots do not develop any growth seen in the plant will be from stored energy in the root. Many peonies survive this but some after using the stored energy will languish until it's own roots gather enough energy from the surrounding soil to provide both for leaf, root, and flower growth.

(Mary) Anchorage, AK(Zone 4b)

Yes. That is what I was trying to explain about fall planting. I had to dig up two of mine in the spring to redo a section of garden and they had a nice crop of those little white roots even though planted in a frozen hole in October with warm dirt from the garage. Amazing.

I had also heard about a peony basically living off of itself for a while then dying. Kind of scary. I must assume that if my plants get bigger, bloom, etc then they are developing healthy roots. I read that a healthy herbaceous could have a 2x3' rootball. And the tubers grow huge. My oldest peonies have only been in the ground for about four years, a herbaceous and an intersectional. Each year they are bigger and the flowers are gorgeous. I have Cora Louise, planted 2 falls ago. First summer she had one flower, but didn't flower last year and was very late breaking earth. Not the typical reaction for my peonies. She is planted next to a big boulder (2x3'). wonder if that rock keeps the cold in and transmits it to the peony. Just a wierd thought. conversely it should store heat in the summer and do likewise. If it is slow again I think I need to dig her up before I lose her. Hate to do that but if she isn't flourishing, then something is wrong.

Dayton, OH

I planted a couple peony's last spring (roots with 3-5 eye's) I had some plant growth which lasted until late fall. I hope they will flower this year. I've always planted peony's in the spring. I just found out from Davesgarden that you could plant peony's in the fall.

Marietta, OH(Zone 6a)

This is my 2nd season for my peonies. Out of 6 tubers planted, only 4 have come up this year (last year the critters munched off the new growth from 2 of those, so I'm surprised I had a total of 4 this year). The stalks look a little spindly to me, do they get thicker with age? Or should I be feeding/fertilizing them? The peonies we had back on the farm were old plants and they had nice stems and big blooms, but I don't remember Gma ever putting any fertilizer or whatever around them. I live in town, zone 6, and will probably have another really dry summer again this year...

Thanks for any help...!

(Mary) Anchorage, AK(Zone 4b)

I wouldn't think age would matter much. I have gotten really big plants and flowers from some of the spindliest tubers. I swear by azomite, not a fertilizer, but minerals. Crickett Hills in Connetticut uses it on their peonies. And your soil may be different from your grma's.

Kiowa, CO(Zone 5b)

When I plant peonies I like to add aged manure in the bottom of the whole, then each spring add a ring of aged manure around the plant. The plants love it. The important thing is make sure its well aged or could burn. Thanks for reminding me, I need to get to that this spring, mine are just starting to grow. Looking forward to having some blooms this year, most were planted last year or the year before, tho small (two-three eye). Years ago I bought from a nursery that specializes in peonies, got my order in the fall, they were huge roots, said 3-5 eyes but were more like 10-15 eyes and all bloomed the next spring. Much nicer response than those bought as 3-5 eye big box store plants. The older they get the better, most people don't realize peonies can live 100+ years. If interested: Gilbert Wild & Son, Sarcoxie, Mo., they have web shopping available also, specializing in daylilies, peonies, iris, hosta. Good Luck, Kathy. My fav. is Duchess de Nemoures, white and oh so fragrant.

(Mary) Anchorage, AK(Zone 4b)

Ops. My mistake. I had just been on a dahlia thread and was thinking of some heirloom dahlia bulbs I got that were tiny but produced nice flowers. Agreed. Older peonies, more eyes, faster growing and faster blooming.

Marietta, OH(Zone 6a)

WWK, would the bagged cow manure compost at Lowe's work the same as the aged stuff from the farm? Back home, years ago, I used to make a manure tea for my garden, but we had our own cows for a supply. I suppose I could stop at a local farm somewhere and ask for manure.. LOL
I have Sarah Bernhardts, but can't remember what the other ones are. The Bernhardts were 1 gal. pots from Lowe's, but the others were a gift bag of mixed ones that Dad in law brought home. They were small with only a few eyes, and only half of them came up.
Oh, I checked out Gilbert Wild..... oh my! Lovely things for sure! Had to sit on my purse... LOL There are a few buds on the ones I have now, so I'm going to wait and see what colors I have before I buy anymore, but definitely bookmarked the page. Their prices aren't bad at all, lots of markdowns too!

Mstella, I have dahlia's also! Dad in law buys a few for my bday every year, so I should have lots of tubers, but am having issues trying to divide those big clumps, overwintering them so they will come up again the following year.. I just haven't got the knack yet! He brought me a lavendar-blue one tonite, along with a pink one from a friend of his. My other ones are yellows and purples, one red and a few pinks, but they look different every year.

Hope this doesn't double post...... my earlier reply disappeared on me!

(Mary) Anchorage, AK(Zone 4b)

Kizmo, that happens to me also -- disappearing messages. There are lots of threads about over wintering dahlias and splitting them. In a nut shell:
1. After first hard frost, cut down to 6" and let them sit for a week (this promotes bigger tubers) and eyes
2. Dig them up (obviously carefully - a pitch fork is better than a shovel although I have used both)
3. Wash them thoroughly and lay them on a screen if you can, stem down, so they can dry well - two or three days
4. Cut where you can separate eyes, making sure you get a bit of stem with each tuber (I never knew this and couldn't figure out why some of my tubers never grew -- guess you need a bit of stem
5. OR, don't cut until the spring when they start to sprout
6. I put a powdered fungicide in a baggy, put in one tuber at a time and 'shake and bake', well, don't bake. this will usually prevent any rotting over the winter -
7. Then, believe it or not, I wrap each one in saran or plastic wrap. This prevents dessication. I have almost 100% success. I wrap with some masking tape and write the name on the tape. There are some sort of pens that will allow you to write on the tuber and I would love to find some but haven't yet. That way when the massive unwrapping begins, you don't lose tags.
8. Store no warmer than 50F, preferably 45F or so in the dark. Don't have to water, and if they are each wrapped separately, if one does rot, it won't hurt the others.

That's my take. A fair amount of work, but I like to see the same dahlias each year and I like the idea of not rebuying. Sounds like you have beautiful colors. Lavendar-blue? What is the name?
Good luck. I am sure others will share their take on this process.
Mary

Kiowa, CO(Zone 5b)

As far as aged manure, yes can used bagged stuff, just remember if it smells when dried let age more or thinner application and keep to dripline area. And yes farm stuff is best, if ya can get Alpaca is best, Chicken, Cow and then Horse. I remember one mothers day my daughter asked what I wanted, that was her mistake. I called a farmer from an add for manure free come and get, Yup my present was having her help me load trash cans full of aged manure, she still laughs at that one 20 years later. Now I am lucky, living on acreage, many of my neighbors have horses and a few have brought me what many gardeners consider as Black Gold, (love it but love the yellow gold best(lol). Here's a pix of Duchess de Nemoures, sorry haven't figured out how to add fragrance to pix yet,(LOL). Kathy.

Thumbnail by warriorswisdomkathy
Stamford, CT(Zone 6b)

Like any fertilizer, straight manure can burn if too strong. Always mix with soil and use sparingly. Results will be amazing.

Marietta, OH(Zone 6a)

Whoops... I lost this thread, but found ya all again! LOL Going to Lowe's today, will pick up a few bags for good measure. My son back in IN said he would get some off the neighbor's farm for me the next time I visit... At least I'll have it for next spring.

What??? No 'scratch and sniff' pics???????? now wouldn't that just be too cool? LOL
All have a nice afternoon, I'm off to the races....

Post a Reply to this Thread

Please or sign up to post.
BACK TO TOP