Callicarpa bodinieri "Profusion'

Jackson, MO(Zone 6b)

I am trying to make some sane order out of my landscape. Every year I say I am going to do this, but get involved in Winter Sowing. The planning for my shrubs and trees gets pushed back.
The more I research on pruning and pollinators, the more confused I get. I have four books at my fingertips and the internet trying to get a clear statement as to When to prune, If to prune and How Often to prune. The more I read, the more varied the information becomes.
I have read that one should prune WHEN the Callicarpa donidieri Profusion" Beautyberry Profusion:
1. Every third year.
2. Every year.
3. Only when one has old limbs.
For Cross Pollination one should have a:
1. Callicarpa bondineiri but a different cultivar than "Profusion" If so, I wouldn't know which to choose.)
2. Or, the Profusion" does't need a cross pollinator.

Right now, I have one Callicarpa bodinieri "Profusion" and I love it. I was blessed with a seedling from the birds and gave it away. I am wondering if I should have kept it for a pollinator. I have had the shrub two years and had quite a show of berries this past fall. It is about 4 feet tall right now.

As to How to prune the pretty shrub, I have read:
1. Not to prune at all.
2. Prune to the ground a 1/3 of the limbs.
3. Prune 6 to 12" above the ground.

All research has suggested the Time to prune is late winter while it is still dormant. That would be the last week in February here--or there about.

Would someone please tell me how to take care of this shrub?
I apologize for the screwed up italics and non italics. I have a small computer and sometimes it doesn't pick up on what I wanted it to do. I don't want to go back and change all of this so please over look the typo.

Dublin, CA(Zone 9a)

Callicarpa blooms on new wood, so in late winter while it's dormant does seem like it would be the best time to prune. In general shrubs that bloom on new wood can be pruned either before or after flowering, but in this case since the berries are even prettier than the flowers you'd definitely want to prune before flowering so that you're not cutting off your future berries.

With shrubs in general, I try not to prune them too much unless they're really getting out of control, and in that case the conservative approach is to prune back no more than 1/3 of the shrub each year (I always take the conservative approach unless the sources I've found all agree that it is one of those shrubs that can be pruned to the ground)

I don't think you need a pollinator--I had 'Profusion' at my old house and it produced berries just fine even though I just had the one plant.

Jackson, MO(Zone 6b)

Thanks ecrane. Nice to know I don't need two of them.

Danville, IN

Just an added note to ecrane3's excellent advice: Beautyberries don't have to be pruned at all, other than removal of dead limbs, and will grow up to 10' with erect-arching branches. However, they can begin to look ratty with age and since they bloom and berry on new wood, it is often recommended to cut them back to within 6" of the ground in late winter. I personally think the one-year growth of arching branches looks very attractive.

Thumbnail by HoosierGreen
Jackson, MO(Zone 6b)

From quite a bit of research, I believe this shrub blooms on new wood. To me it would make sense to prune the shrub down late winter (last of February here) to about 12" so all the energy goes into the "new wood" that will produce flowers and fruit. I would think the shrub would produce more flowers and berries that way.
I certainly don't want to ruin the lovely shape of this shrub. I love the fountain shape.
I am after most berry production. I understand this shrub can get 10' tall if left to it's own devices. My shrub is about 4 1/2' right now and I like the size it is. It fits proportionately in the garden I have it in.
So, if this reasoning is not a good idea. Please correct me. If not, I believe that is what I am going to do.
BTW, I have Sedum 'Brilliant' growing by it. It turns bright fuschia (red purple) while the berries are fuschia (bright red purple). I would like to plant something that is lemon yellow or white, or red orange that would bloom at the same time as the plant is in colorful berry mode. I haven't come up with anything yet. A lot of flowers are "done" by then.
Thanks for your input.

Danville, IN

Mums are the first thing that come to mind for color around the shrub in the fall. You could also use any of the shorter perennial grasses that turn golden yellow in the fall such as the fountain grasses. Then, there is the 2011 Perennial of the Year, Ansonia hubrichtii or 'Blue Star' that turns a stunning golden color in the fall.

Jackson, MO(Zone 6b)

I like the idea of mums or Amsonia. I actually have the seed for the latter. I notice it needs like 6 weeks of stratification. I plan on WS this today or tomorrow. I may be too late.
I hadn't thought where to put the Amsonia--just liked it. I love that idea. I could have the pretty light blue flowers earlier. Two seasons of interest!

Danville, IN

If it works out, be sure to post photos of the combination. Good luck!

BTW, if you don't get good plants of the 'Blue Star' from seed, I'm sure the plants will be for sale everywhere since it's the 2011 Perennial Plant of the Year.

Jackson, MO(Zone 6b)

I sure hope so. I get disappointed in the garden centers here and what they offer.
I had a list of about 20 types of seeds. I was able to get about 5 of them: 4 of which were annuals and only one perennial.

Saint Louis, MO(Zone 6a)

I cut my callicarpas completely to the ground in late winter.
They flourish and bloom/berry prolifically.
Don't worry about the seedling that got away - it reseeds plentifully.
I use the white variety as a contrasting foil with the purple.
Goldenrod is blooming at the same time, which also makes a nice color combo.

Here are white/purple callicarpa's together.
Not a great shot, but the best one I could find in a pinch.

Thumbnail by Weerobin
Danville, IN

Oh yeah.... forgot about goldenrod. And there are so many nice cultivars available now. A great low-growing one (12") is 'Baby Gold' while a taller one (to 36") is 'Fireworks'. A light lemon-yellow one is 'Little Lemon' (only 8"). The blooms are different on all three. Great plants for the garden.

Jackson, MO(Zone 6b)

On second thought......... I have been thinking that maybe I should find some plants that would pull out that outstanding fuschia berry color.
I love the ideas you have given me for the orange-gold colors.
If you have ideas for the fuschia berry color in the fall that would be great.
I know there are purple mums-but mine get so tall. I would like to have something that doesn't get much more than 12 inches.
Am I allowed to change my mind?
:o{
Typical woman!
Maybe I will do some of both.

Danville, IN

The woman's prerogative and all that!

However, I do think that your original idea of using orange-gold flowers would putt out the fuchsia berry color, don't you?

For another approach though, consider using pink or burgundy flowers and/or foliage plants. You wouldn't have to wait until the berry show in the fall either. You could plant burgundy foliage plants such as the dark cultivars of heuchera (coral bells) such as 'Plum Pudding', OR the wonderful golden ones such as 'Caramel'. Many annuals would put on a season-long show, culminating with the callicarpa's display in the fall.

Jackson, MO(Zone 6b)

This shrub is in full sun on a berm. I think Heucheras have to have some shade although I love that idea. I'm thinking most of the annuals would be "done in" by the time the berries turned color.
Regarding the yellow-orange----I just thought the berries would be so small, that they wouldn't be noticed, and I would need to pull the color of the berries out more by using more of the berry color. But, I sure appreciate your suggestions and comments.
I thought of coleus and caladiums but both of them need shade. I guess I am just not thinking very well. I'm drawing a blank--{which is pretty often anyway :) }
I have a relative of the Homestead Verbena that is about that color. Perhaps, I should take cuttings and plant it near the shrub. It's bright green right now even with 3* night temps and 25* day temps last week. Today, it's 66* or so (unusual).

Jackson, MO(Zone 6b)

I also really like the idea of pink or burgundy flowers as well. I have Antirrhinum (Snapdragon) 'Black Prince' (burgundy color) that actually comes back as a perennial. Also,"Sweet William" but again, I think the latter will be through blooming.
I also have Burgundy Barberry about 5' from it.

Saint Louis, MO(Zone 6a)

Does your homestead verbena overwinter?
Despite the zone 6 reports I've seen, I have never had success overwintering it.
Do you grow it successfully?

Jackson, MO(Zone 6b)

Wee: Yes, I have over wintered Homestead Verbena successfully. I believe it has to find a nice location it does really well in. I have planted it in some places, and it doesn't even make it through the summer, but it wasn't getting any water or very little.
The H.V. that I have now is really gorgeous. It's not the pretty violet-blue color you find in the garden centers. This was propagated by a family owned garden center lady. It's a violet-red, the leaves are brighter green and it seems to be really hardy.
I do have it about 18" from my concrete driveway. This is the first winter I have had it. I do plan to propagate and put it in other places.

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