How are your maples handling the heat this summer?

I am curious to know how everyone's maples are surviving the heat this summer?

Here in the NE it has been very hot and humid (electic bill from the AC is killing me!). I have a small pond in my back yard that is at its lowest level in what seems like 10 years.

Many of my trees with more exposure have some leaf burnt. A bloodgood, orange dream, a new shirazz that is in a small pot, and a few other new ones this year. I am hoping for the new ones it is growing pains from their first year outside. The orange dream is in its second year gets a good deal of shade and still has lost some top leaves both years.

I also may have lost a beni kawa that has previoulsy reverted to its root stock. It was a total crispy critter. I have removed the dead leaves and watering it regarlarly hoping for the best. It had kept its bright red branches year round and had a cool leaf and fantastic fall colors. It has only been a week since I noticed so on the look our for new leaf buds forming - fingers crossed.

I have found most of my trees burn to some degree in summer I am convinced it is a humidity thing... the old saying it is not the heat it's the humidity ...I have NO scientific resource to back up this claim but even older full sun non burning trees burn here in full sun mid summer . I think the adage of partial shade for all jms is a good one . This year has added the deluge factor ... younger trees do not have the established root systems to take all that rain ... and then when the get hot they defoliate .. some of these will croak from drowning.. but others will just pop back .. It's been a very tough winter and following summer for all jms .. Burning will not hurt the trees ... .. your enemy is too much water not sun ...and for most folks no jm looks great in mid summer folks that say they do are either blind , live in a perfect environment or full of it....Davidsan

This has been one of the most disgusting summers for plants that I have witnessed in quite some time but as David says they will bounce back. The only drawback is that I have to take pictures of the plants that are ordered by mail to show them to the customer for final approval.

Dave

I've been pretty pleased with most of my trees this year. I recontstructed my drip irrigation system this spring so all the JMs that I have in pots have received a more targeted watering plan than they have in years past and they seem to have benefited from that as I have seen a lot less leaf burn on most of them.

I only have five JMs planted in the ground: a Glowing Embers, Beni Shichihenge, Red Dragon, Emerald Lace, and a Diana's Gem. The only tree that has significant leaf burn is the Diana's Gem but it began the spring in a too sunny location and burned right away so I moved it several months ago to where it receives only an hour or two of morning sun and it is slowly rebounding.

My only real concern has been with the vigorous growth I've seen on some of my trees. Both the Glowing Embers and the Beni Shichihenge threw out extremely long shoots compared to the size of the tree and the leaf shapes didn't seem consistent with the older leaves - they were much larger. Do you think that might mean they are getting too much nitrogen? I haven't fertilized but the beds they are in have been receiving annual doses of compost.

disgusting summer for plants is right on Dave!

not sure about the leaf sizes gsox alhtough i did have a beni fugi dogwood (should be a jm name!) grow large leaves last year only to come back this year with even growth.

The leaves on my beni fugi are also small. I do like the pink flower. it seems more pronounced then other pinks.

Dave

As I said it's the humidity and excessive rain IMHO .. you don't get either in Sacramento ..,. I was just out in Oregon visiting nurseries.. saw plenty of burn on potted trees even in shade cloth but so much on some planted out but even some of those have it and they have virtually no humidity but more than CA... some cultivars just do better than others.... I think drip irrigation has little or nothing to do with it although it is nice to have... You can water the plants til the cows come in and still get burn.

GardenSox--it may be the cooler than normal summer that's helped your trees look better and not the drip irrigation (although more consistent watering certainly won't hurt them). Mine are looking much better than usual this year and nothing has changed in my watering or the location I keep the pots, so I really think it's the lack of 100+ days (and not even very many in the 90's). I know your weather's a little different than mine, but all over CA it seems like the summer temps haven't been as warm as usual. Normally I've got several that are looking pretty ratty by now even though they only get a couple hours of morning sun, but with the exception of a few crisp edges on Shirazz mine are all looking really good.

i agree about the beni fugi dave - mine has only been here two years and i re-planted it this spring in a raised bed so not a lot of blooms this past year - last year it was nice.

david - you keep talking about rain - send some to the pepperell!

I also sprayed a product called "Cloud Cover" on my JMs this spring that is supposed to help with leaf burn so that may have helped me some this year too.

may have to look into that for a couple of them.

My largest maple is suffering the most from leaf burn because our watering has been bad. The potted trees are doing OK, some are a bit reddish, but getting watered regularly, so doing pretty well. The ones planted out should have been watered more. We've had rain in the past week, so that has helped.

Laura

I have found at least here I never have to water in ground trees after the first year .. ( this year I have not even watered any newly planted trees either it has been so wet.). If you are in a drought or very dry area it is likely different. But once they get their roots established even if not well mulched they really don't need it .. My large clump actual Bloodgood's burn EVERY year they are 12' tall large bushes .. and get some afternoon shade .. why I have no idea ... I think water has very little to do with leaf burn ... but your tree can crisp up with lack of water .. which as Dave says plays havoc for sellers who are nice enough to take photos of trees for customers ..Even if not burned badly or at all Jms look like they have been up all night and out on the town from july thru late aug or until they put on some new growth . And some Jms do not have an additional flush ... The prime time for Jms is spring and early summer and in fall . As I always say... if you want perfection go on ebay and buy one of those plastic JMs .. yes they do have them .. put it next to your plastic deer and that cute gnome ;>)....

that is pretty much how i take care of my jm's - in grounds fend for themselves and new one's and containers get watered.

it has been very dry here with my pond out back approaching all time low levels. i have begun moving sprinklers closer to jm's planted in the ground just in case.

Hi,

I came to this forum specifically looking for advice about burnt leaves & was glad to read Gardensox's suggestion to use Cloud Cover - something to try next year.

I have an Emperor in a pot, that I've had for 5 years, and this year the leaves are crispy critters - not an issue in past years & surprising with the cool summer we're having. It's in the same spot, but I did put it into a larger pot last year and continue to water once a week.... maybe it needs more water, despite the bigger pot?

I'd welcome any other suggestions.

Thanks.

Liz

I am watering my containers every other day but I also haven't received any measurable rain for at 2 1/2 months.

Dave

same weather here Dave - i have been watering about twice a week

Here it is mostly just the heat it has rained little in the last few weeks and that west coast bark blend is for constant irrigation .and for most folks for5 the birds. I don't suggest anyone using it without adding a bit more substance if they house allot of Jms in containers ... it is just too fry worthy.. adding some potting soil or tree planting soil along with some granite like turkey grit instead of that very lite pumice or perlite makes for a mix that doesn't fry your plants if you miss a watering or blow over in 10 mile an hour wind This mixture tstill dries out but not with a blink of the eye.. Remember most big Oregon growers and nurseries are st up like our California friend and have drip irrigation and water bills are high but that is the best way to handle their mixture. I think for them is as much for it's obtain ability and price as it is for it's greatness for containers . Most of us do not have easy access to much of what the "west coast blend has in it, and better access to substitutes .. and those substitutes are actually better for most of us anyway IMHO..Davidsan

This message was edited Aug 11, 2010 11:21 AM