Need to get HOMEMADE COMPOST BREAKDOWN within 3-4 Months

Hi all!
My problem has been that my pile has never heated up. My DH makes a pile way out back behind the yard, and his always gets hot. The only difference is that I don't put any grass clippings in my pile & His is composed of mostly grass mixed with some of the leaves. However, stray cats poop in the grass, and I use my compost for my veggie growing. Don't want pooped up grass in my compost!

I just rebuilt my pile by alternating layers of the following, in this order: confetti shredder paper, coffee grinds, veggie slush, alfalfa pellets & bunny poo, dried leaves. I have two layers of the above, ending with the leaves. My pile measures 3.5x3.5x3. I added the alfalfa pellets hoping for some heat (or faster breakdown). I need my pile to break down in 3-4 months max. from the time I construct it. I just learned that the grinds and veggie scraps are considered greens (nitrogen). I have plenty of leaves available. I don't really measure anything, just spread what I have saved up when it's time to rebuild. I probably need to start measuring the ratios to get some burn, huh?

BURN is not absolutely necessary. I do have earthworms down there, and don't really want to harm them. But I do need FASTER breakdown. Any suggestions would be welcome!

Thanks!

Linda

http://www.klickitatcounty.org/SolidWaste/fileshtml/organics/compostCalc.htm

Linda, calculate then measure for the best C:N ratio. Make sure the compost is damp. I soak leaves or cardboard before adding to my tumbler because they are hard to get wet. Air, water, carbon and nitrogen is all you need if you use the proper ratios.

Thanks RTL! These are the numbers I got. Now, how do I measure one part? I read and the discussion had to to with wet measure. And, my measures were equalling something like 50 lbs. of this, 55 lbs of that, etc.!

Help.

For a total C:N Ratio of 34:1 mix
1 part(s) Vegetable Waste
1 part(s) Coffee Grounds
5 part(s) Leaves loose-dry
5 part(s) Office Paper

This message was edited Mar 26, 2010 3:58 PM

A part can be anything. I bucket can be a part so 1 bucket veggie waste, 1 bucket coffee grounds... etc. etc. A coffee can could be a part, anything you can use to measure amounts with. And aim for a total ratio of 30. You can also use .5 parts to get your ratios where you want them. If you can get shredded cardboard it will reduce your amount of carbon significantly. I actually sit and score up old boxes because that is the only way I can get the cardboard in small pieces. I used .5 veggie waste, .5 coffee grounds, 1 part shredded cardboard, and 2 parts leaves. And I used HD buckets for my part. Then I went and made me a compost tumbler to tumble everything because I don't want to have to turn a pile...I'm too old.

I soak cardboard before adding it to the pile. It's much easier to tear up when it's sodden and mushy.

Thanks!

Linda i posted the same question, I should have looked here as well before posting, mine is not getting hot either, at first I thought it was due to the cold weather but now I am wondering if maybe my ratios are not good, it does have lots of worms though but I was hoping for the faster method and not the one that takes a whole year to break down.

C,
go to that website and plug in your ingredients. It'll calculate for you!

Linda, 3-4 months is a longtime. Very hot compost piles (140-180 degrees) breakdown in only a few weeks. You shouldn't be too worried about getting the pile perfect or having completed compost in time. IME, it really doesn't make that big of a difference if their are still recognizable pieces in you compost when add it to your beds. The soil microbes will continue to break it down. In fact, I have put half decomposed stuff underneath mulch next to growing plants with fantastic results. I'm starting to think that this is the better option time and soil fertility wise. Hot composting kills patheogenic bacteria and weed seeds but can also kill beneficial microbes and leads to some volitization of nutrients. Passive composts maintains nutrients and works within the soil food web. Hot composting is great if you want some compost in less than a month and/or using manure. Passive piles are more interesting to watch with the many macroanthropoids. (Yes, I watch my pile if doesn't smell and there are several beetles, ants, mites and earthworms doing their thing.)

Thanks, DL!

Thanks DL,
I was about to ask why everyone was in such a hurry. I just turn my pile a little every time I have some green stuff or coffee grounds to mix with last year's wheat straw. I am starting to get a lot of black dirt looking compost with worms, roly polies, etc. Like you said, nice to watch. I also like the smell.

Hi Guys,
I'm strictly doing container veggie gardening in eBuckets and patented Earthboxes. My brassicas do exceptionally well in a blend of MG potting mix, Black Kow Composted Manure, and my homemade compost. It seems I'm spending more & more $$ each season on planting medium. I have access to lots of leaves, grass clippings, shredder paper, coffee grinds & veggie peels. I need 2 know how 2 make my own low-cost planting medium using the ingredients above, something my fall crop will be happy 2 grow in.

Any suggestions would truly be appreciated.

Thx.

Linda

My potting soil recipe is 1 part sand, 2 parts vermiculite, 3 parts peat - with added lime to adjust pH - and 6 parts compost - sifted to remove sticks and twigs. Potting soil needs something to hold water (i.e. peat or coir), something to provide air pockets and free movement for roots (i.e. vermiculite, perlite or sand) and something for fertilization (i.e. compost). This year, I am trying to find coir to use instead of peat. It is more environmentally friendly and less of a bother to use - don't have to adjust the pH.

Make sure that OM is well composted and aged before using. Stear clear of anything that can potentially harbor disease pathogeons or pests. What is a minor nuisance in the garden is a major problem in a pot or EB.