Are we supposed to prune spirea(sp) shrubs now or at all?

Fuquay Varina, NC(Zone 7b)

Those spindly looking spirea shrubs-there are a number of varieties. They look terrible now but in a few weeks will be sprouting new buds. Do they bloom on old wood? When do I prune them? Any help would be appreciated!

Holland, OH(Zone 5b)

I'm not certain exactly which spirea you have. There are many species. However the best time to prune for nearly all of them is immediately after flowering. Get down to the base of the shrub and cut off at ground level 1/3 of the oldest, thickest stems. After that prune back for height and overall balance and shape. Always cut back to an outward facing bud to direct growth away from the interior of the shrub. They're generally a tough shrub and should put on a good flowering show for you in the spring of 2011. I hope this helps.

Fuquay Varina, NC(Zone 7b)

Thank you Snapple45 for your response. I figured they were like any other flowering shrub..that is..pruning after blooming. Just wanted confirmation from someone wiser than myself! I will wait!

Holland, OH(Zone 5b)

I wouldn't say I'm all that wise. Experienced maybe. Your instincts were right. You''ll not do harm to most flowering shrubs if you wait untill after flowering to prune.

Danville, IN

I don't disagree with Snapple45's advice, but with this caveat: If you have any of the many, many cultivars of Japanese spirea (Spiraea japonica) or Spiraea x bumalda (less common)... since all of these bloom on new growth, it's perfectly fine if you cut them completely to the ground in late fall or early spring every few years to rejuvenate them. I do this routinely on maintenance jobs when I notice that there's a lot of dead in the plant. With cultivars such as 'Anthony Waterer', 'Gold Mound', 'Gold Flame', 'Crispa', 'Little Princess', 'Neon Flash', and the like, this is so-o-o much easier than trying to prune out the dead twigs since the plants are so dense. You will absolutely get bloom this year if you cut them back now, although it will be a week or two later than usual. The larger-growing spireas, such as Spirea nipponica ('Snowmound'), the old-fashioned Bridalwreath Spirea (Spirea prunifolia), and 'Vanhoutte Spirea' (Spirea x vanhouttei) can more easily be pruned selectively, and they tend to not develop deadwood as quickly, so don't routinely need this severe treatment. But again, they can be cut back completely to the ground when getting too woody or develop too much deadwood. I usually give the cut back plants a little fertilizer at the same time. By summer, you will have nice, fresh plants, with bloom.

I found out by accident that you can promote a second and even third flush of bloom on the smaller spireas (such as 'Gold Mound' and 'Little Princess') by shearing the entire shrub back about a third after blooming. In just a few weeks, the plant will be in full bloom again.

This message was edited Mar 14, 2010 11:09 AM

Danville, IN

Here's a photo of a 'Goldflame' spirea. It's an example of one of the smaller cultivars that respond well to severely hacking back to the ground every three to five years instead of trying to selectively prune out deadwood. I use gas hedge trimmers. The little "branches" are so thin that it takes all of a few seconds to whack them off. Sharp manual hedge trimmers work almost as well. Good luck.

Thumbnail by HoosierGreen
Nantucket, MA(Zone 7a)

I prune my many spirea now if I didn't do them in the fall or think I want to take more out or shorten them. I also always prune them as soon as they finish blooming, so I get a new flush of blooms in the late summer. When doing the fall clean up I prune them if I have time. All works. Patti

Nantucket, MA(Zone 7a)

Here are a couple shots that show two in flower and then one shot that includes them both as pruned in the fall, but I have pruned these in March many years. I had re-blooms on both late last years after an Oct pruning, so I need to prune them again. We had a very mild Nov and early Dec. Patti

Thumbnail by bbrookrd
Danville, IN

bbrookrd: Lower left looks like 'Little Princess' and the right 'Anthony Waterer' or one of its improved descendants such as 'Neon Flash'. The 'Little Princess' could definitely be cut to the ground each year. The AW could be selectively pruned or cut to the ground when the deadwood is predominant, probably every 5 or 6 years or so. Nice garden!

Nantucket, MA(Zone 7a)

Yes the Right is Anthony Waterer, left was an unlabeled gift years ago. Good call. I have never cut them to the ground, but I know I could. We have Shirobana, Goldmound, White Gold, and Ogon plus a few more that are not named in Nantucket. I have had them all for many years, except White Gold and Ogon. I do have Gold Flame in our Vt garden, plus a couple more, They are well behaved and easy. I just wish Goldmound had white flowers as I hate the leaf & flower combination on that one. I just cut the blooms off. Patti

Danville, IN

Isn't 'Ogon' a hoot! (a.k.a. 'Mellow Yellow') Love the fall color... practically psychedelic!!! The 'Ogon' and 'Anthony Waterer' can go for years without pruning, but all of your others will benefit from rejuvenating every three years or so. (Some just love the pink and gold of 'Gold Mound'! I admit it takes some getting used to.)

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