Instructions on how to use Rubbermaid bin.

I inherited a Rubbermaid bin with my new house. They are no longer made, and I have not been able to find a user's manual on the internet. I would sure appreciate it if someone could email it to me or I could pay the postage for a copy.

What is a Rubbermaid Bin and what is it used for?

Can you take a picture and post it here?

are you talking about a black plastic composting bin with a lid that's supposed to lock?

I found one article but it talked about using a 'regular' Rubbermaid bin and converting it to a composter--not what I think we're talking about here. Plus this guy says he gets lots of maggots and flies. EEEwwwww No thanks.
http://chetday.com/compostrubbermaid.htm

why would anyone do this? it's so much easier to make a large pile in a corner somewhere!

I use perforated 32 gallon plastic garbage cans because I have pets and a rodent problem. Sometimes, when I have enough OM I will do a quick hot compost out in the open. This breaks down too quickly for any problems. To collect enough takes a few months. In the meantime, leaving an open pile is an inventation for everything in the neighborhood to rumage through it.

chewbarker:

Here is someone that would surely know. See if you can contact him

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/soil/msg1215425615088.html

This message was edited Mar 10, 2010 2:25 PM

I made a worm bin out of two plastic Rubbermaid containers. It's supposed to be for apartment dwellers. You basically drill holes in the bottom of one and put it inside the other (use an electric drill, but make sure the room is well ventilated. I got a nasty headache from the plastic vapors/smell after drilling). Put a spigot low down on the end of the outside bin for collecting worm tea. Put holes with little vents (from you hardware store) in the bin for air and there you are. The instructions I found were online on the Seattle King5 news site in the gardening section. The video demo was done by a Seattle Master Composter.

Add shredded paper and wet it well. Start adding your food pieces and then borrow a few red wigglers from your neighbor and Voila!

This message was edited Mar 24, 2010 10:13 AM

DL,
How do you make a "quick" hot compost? Please post instructions.

I just rebuilt my open compost pile alternately layering (in this order) confetti shredder paper, coffee grinds, veggie peel slush, dried leaves, alfalfa pellets & bunny poo. I made two layers ending with the leaves.

My question regards the use of the alfalfa pellets and bunny poo as nitrogen (greens) to begin heating up the pile. How exactly should you use the alfalfa pellets to start the heat on your pile? I bought 2 lbs. of pellets and divided it (sprinkled) between two layers, roughly 1 lbs. per layer. Thanks!

Linda

Gymgirl, I have never used alfalfa. So, can't give you specific advice about it. I don't use a recipe per se. Instead, I make sure the pile is big (3x3 to 5x5), moist, has plenty of nitrogen (but not too much) and turn it often (at least every three days).

It seems that you have quite a bit of nitrogen already. Coffee grounds and vegetable scraps are high in nitrogen, too. Maybe, hold off on the alfafa and rabbit poo when first constructing the pile. If the pile is not heating up above 90 or heats up and cools down, add about quarter to a half of the rabbit poo and alfalfa. If the pile heats up fast, gets really hot (165+ degrees) and/or smells like ammonia, lay off the nitrogen, especially manure, and add more browns.

Often, it is easier to overdo the greens with backyard gardeners. Newspapers, cardboard boxes, cereal/pasta/cookie boxes and leaves are all browns and usually free. Straw bales are inexpensive. They are useful when you find yourself in a pinch with no other browns are available and you want to build a pile fast.

DL,
Thanks for the comeback! My problem has been that my pile has never heated up. My DH makes a pile way out back behind the yard, and his always gets hot. The only difference is that I don't put any grass clippings in my pile. His is composed of mostly grass mixed with some of the leaves. However, stray cats poop in the grass, and I use my compost for my veggie growing. Don't want pooped up grass in my compost!

Which is why I added the alfalfa pellets at all. I need my pile to break down in 3-4 months max. from the time I construct it. I just learned that the grinds and veggie scraps are considered greens (nitrogen). And I keep plenty of leaves. Is my ratio off? I don't really measure anything. Just spread what I have available at the time. I probably need to start measuring the ratio to get some burn, huh?

P.S. BURN is not absolutely necessary. I do have earthworms down there, and don't really want to harm them. But I do need faster breakdown. Any suggestions would be welcome!

I think I'm gonna post this under a new thread for replies.

Thanks!

If your pile is not heating up, add more nitrogen. It really should only take about a day or two to reach 120+. I've had great success with coffee grounds. Hit up every Starbucks in town for a week. That should be enough to heat things up. Make sure to call ahead and request, though. Its gardening season and everyone is making a run on them. Do you neighbors keep chickens, rabbits, doves or quails? There manure will also give you an additional boost.

Also, is your pile wet? Sometimes, it is hard to get it completely soaked through in a big pile. Take off a few layers and see. Dry and slightly damp piles never heat up. For me, this is the biggest culprit for a cold pile after not enough nitrogen.

Thanks, DL. I think dry might be an issue too. I did water a bit more this time, but all the while I was still thinking I was watering way too much! I'll work with the greens, too. You're using a compost thermometer?

No, I use a cheap meat therometer from BigLots. It has served me well for 3 years. You've added too much water when the compost pile smells, is slimmy and becomes compacted and clumps together after a few days. Not heating up or breaking down then there is too little.

The water level of the compost pile will change fast. Check it everyday or so with a dipstick. Kitchen and green yard waste will release water as they break down, saturating the pile. Hot compost piles that are turned often will lose it through evaporation. If it becomes obvious that there is too much water add dry, bulky materials like straw and leaves to absorb it. You can also deconstruct the pile for half a day to let it dry out. This will set you back a bit as the pile has to heat up again. But, it is an option if there is not enough browns available.

Thanks, DL.

Now I'm gonna turn this thread back over to ChewBarker, who has patiently tolerated our hijacking!

Thanks, Chew!

Linda