BELLS AND EGGPLANT QUESTIONS 101

It's almost time to start these in the South! Post your questions and get some answers here!

Farmerdill,
I potted up last night. (see the pic in the post above)

I ended up with 37 bells and hot peppers, and, I potted them ALMOST to the bottom of each 16 oz. Red Solo cup. Sure hope I didn't kill the entire crop by potting too deeply. I will certainly let ya'll know how they make out, getting sunk so far down.

Linda

This message was edited Feb 19, 2010 9:57 AM

Bump. I really want an answer before I start potting up all these eggplants and pepper plants. Chance of snow on Tues. I think our plant out date may be pushed back a little this year!

I am also in 8a Ga, and I start mine the first week of February and don't pot up till March. Last average frost date is April 15, won't think about putting in ground till late April.

1Lisac,
It's been two days since I potted up the pepper seedlings and, so far, so good. They're still inside under the fluorescent lights. And, I hope I'm not just imagining this but, the next morning after, I could ALMOST swear those seedlings had grown during the night! Also, the color on them is either AMAZINGLY emerald green, or really just a bright glare from the lights!
My scheduled plant out date starts March 15th and thereafter.
Hugs,
Linda

This message was edited Feb 20, 2010 12:00 PM

I don't pot mine up until March either. I usually plant eggplants and peppers in the ground about the middle of April BUT I'm selling most of the plants and the minute the weather starts to warm up people want the plants. I always advise that they wait until the weather is stable but that doesn't mean that they do. Also, I have so many plants that I have to pot up in stages, and my 1 wholesale order is for a small nursery in a town only a 1/2 hr from here but their plant out date is 2 weeks earlier then ours so I need to have them ready, and I hope to pot up a few at a time not hundreds all at once. I'm NW of Austin in the Hill Country, Austin is usually about 10* warmer then we are. I will start potting up the first week in March but I'm still not sure how deep I can set the plants?

Possible snow Tuesday-Wed. Argh.....
Lisa

No deeper than the cotyledons. Unlike tomatoes which you set up to the top leaves. Deep setting does not have any advantages for Eggplant and peppers other than stability. It may not hurt them but you do increase the chances of stem rot when the tender part of the stem is exposed to damp planting medium.

OK. That will work, THANK YOU. I don't want any stem rot.

I don't either...ya'll pray, here?

Uh, ya'll, I just went checked the peppers again. I'm not exaggerating. They keep looking like they're growing overnight...right now they look like artificial plastic plants they're so stiff and standing straight up...

1Lisac,
What varieties are you growing?

1Lisac,
I googled how deep to plant bell pepper seeds, and here is a website of interest.

http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/pepper/2003055700000842.html

Posted by: Juzen z7 Germany on Sun, Mar 16, 03 at 6:45 Controlled studies at Florida have shown that peppers and tomatoes should be planted deeper. Summary: Best seems to be planting to the first true leaves:

"Extra-large fruit volume was increased at first harvest by deeper planting (Figure 2). Extra-large fruit volume was greatest for the deepest planting and was significantly less for the cotyledon and root ball plantings. The extra-large fruit response appeared to be a first harvest phenomenon as the other treatments "caught up" after four harvests. Sunny did not show the same response as Agriset and Colonial, implying different cultivars may respond differently to planting depth. This aspect is undergoing further examination." ©

and

"Is deeper better? Yes! Preliminary statistical analysis reveals that planting to the cotyledon leaf offers the same benefit as planting to the first true leaf where total boxes at first harvest is concerned. However, in two of the five "successful" trials, a significantly greater yield of ex-large fruit at first harvest when planting to the first true leaf was shown." - excerpted from Southwest Florida Research & Education Center, UF/IFAS website

Jürgen

This post below was the last in the discussion.

Posted by: Juzen z7 Germany on Sun, Mar 16, 03 at 6:45 Controlled studies at Florida have shown that peppers and tomatoes should be planted deeper. Summary: Best seems to be planting to the first true leaves:

"Extra-large fruit volume was increased at first harvest by deeper planting (Figure 2). Extra-large fruit volume was greatest for the deepest planting and was significantly less for the cotyledon and root ball plantings. The extra-large fruit response appeared to be a first harvest phenomenon as the other treatments "caught up" after four harvests. Sunny did not show the same response as Agriset and Colonial, implying different cultivars may respond differently to planting depth. This aspect is undergoing further examination." ©

and

"Is deeper better? Yes! Preliminary statistical analysis reveals that planting to the cotyledon leaf offers the same benefit as planting to the first true leaf where total boxes at first harvest is concerned. However, in two of the five "successful" trials, a significantly greater yield of ex-large fruit at first harvest when planting to the first true leaf was shown." - excerpted from Southwest Florida Research & Education Center, UF/IFAS website

Jürgen

Wow, Thanks for finding all that info. I'm growing Hot Peppers-Chiltepin, Tunesian Baklouti (North African), Early Jalapeno, Purple Jalapeno, TAM Jalapeno, Serrano Chili,
Original Habanero, Chocolate Habanero, White Habanero,
Tabasco Pepper, Medusa
Sweet Peppers-Sweet Chocolate Pepper, Quadrato D’Asti Giallo, Golden Marconi California Wonder Green Bell, Calwonder Golden Bell, Jupiter Red Bell.

Hey Linda!!! Good thread...I just put my peppers under lights just yesterday (18 hrs/ day?) I must have at at least a dozen Big Berthas and maybe 4 - 6 California Wonders. It was interesting to note that the Big Bertha seeds germinated much faster than the California Wonder seeds. I did not keep as good of notes as I anticipated, but the Big Bertha seeds germinated at least a full 3 weeks faster (at least.) I hope my seedlings will experience a burst of growth under lights, we'll see.

I'll have pics when they're not embarrassingly small.

John, LMK if you wanna negotiate a trade of some bells and hots. I've got King of the North and Emerald Giant bells and Largo Purple hots. Google 'em.

BELL PEPPER UPDATE:

I potted up my Winter Sowed bell pepper seedlings 6 days ago. I planted them right at the cotyledons. In most cases, I planted right over the cotyledons. We were discussing whether planting bell peppers deeper made a difference.

Look at these pics...and remember the cotyledons are below the soil line...6 days ago..


This message was edited Feb 24, 2010 8:14 PM

Here's another pic.

They look excellent Linda!

WOW 6 days that's great and no stem rot. I have 1000+ to pot up starting this weekend. I'm amazed at how differently the various types of peppers grow. All started at the same time, same amount of light, same distance from lights and the different types are totally different sizes.

This message was edited Feb 25, 2010 1:00 PM

1Lisac,
You meant no stem "rot" right? None that I detect at this point. Every plant is still saluting the morning! I just watered tonight with some MG and Epsom Salts.

Wow, amazing results..... So I guess some of us are going to plant pepper plants like we plant tomato plants now? I know I am going to try it... I am doing transplants tomorrow and will see how it works. If there is any chance at all of "root rot" then I am 100% sure it will hit my plants first and I will let you all know. I feel the need for a pepper haiku right now but the words just aren't coming. Will try again tomorrow. Goodnight folks~

Ratfood,
How about doing a test with only a FEW of your plants. My jury is still holding its breath over here. So far, so good. But, I'd hate for you to lose your seedlings following my lead.

Please keep me posted with pics of your progress. I'll do the same!

Linda

Ciao!

Hi RATFOOD!

You are going to have a way better garden this year -- I just know it! Hey, last year wasn't all that bad in retrospect was it - lol?

Sorry in all my hast I typed in root and not rot.
RF we are concerned about stem rot not root rot, I really confused the situation. Also, last year was a hard year in TX for gardens because it was so hot and dry. I think we all had problems, mine was Spider mites. This should be a much better year. There were conditions last year that you had no control over.
Linda-after all the research you have done deep planting obviously works

1Lisac,
I did a bit of research, yes, but like I told Ratfood, the jury is still out. I had one seedling in some distress this morning, and I've isolated him from the general population, just in case.

The leaves were all droopy, with crispy edges. Better safe than sorry, so he's in quarantine! I'm gonna play doctor with this one. I'm thinking I'm gonna dose him with a weak solution of H2O2 when I get home to see if I can knock what ails him, outta him! If that fails, I'll consider myself blessed to lose only one seedling outta the bunch!

Linda, who is urging extreme caution on this deep rooting planting method, until we see further down the road!

Gym girl your pics do not show the deep planting associated with tomatoes. If you had removed those two bottom leaves and coverd th e stems then you would be more more subject to stem rot. You should not have any major problems at the depth depicted. The two things to avoid because peppers and eggplants do not root along the stem, is oxygen deprivation of the roots and tender parts of the stem exposed to whatever pathogens may invade the soil surface.

Hi Lisa, I lost the great spidermite war of 2009. I am still having flashbacks of all the casualties my side suffered. We are going in with a little more knowledge this year and we have more reinforcements so morale is high. We'll see how it pans out.

Hi Kelly! If it wasn't fun what would be the point, right? In retrospect last year was a very educational experience~ Just when I thought things were coming along something new came and slapped me upside down. Of course, I wouldn't trade it for anything (except for when I accidentally touched that horn worm, I almost gave up the ghost that day). I am just curoius as to what is coming next. This year I wouldn't be suprised if a pteranodon swooped down and flew off with one of my hay bales.

I transplanted some of my peppers today and I dropped them all the way down in the new pot. I will have enough planted that if half rot away I will still have plenty of peppers to keep me happy. Except my scotch bonnet's keep dying but thats another story. I like the idea of getting "Extra-large fruit" so we will see how it works out. I have been watering a lot with h2o2 added so hopefully that will help with the root-oxygen-deprivation Farmerdill is concerned about...

Het Rat! What ratio are you mixing your H2O2?
Well, I lost the seedling. It was 2 damping off. This was a much smaller seedling than the rest & I probably should've let It get bigger.

Well it's seed inventory night. Making my list and checking it twice. Gonna find out what's growing or not this spring -- and where!
I sure would appreciate if you would revue my List and LMK if there's something on it I shouldn't be starting in the spring! Do ya'll recommend winter sowing now or direct seeding okra, eggplants, & squash?

Gonna go type up my list. Thx!

On the news they just said that March is supposed to be colder and wetter then normal. I can't decide if I should start potting up my few thousand seedlings. They will take up so much more room but it will be nice to do it at a slower pace instead of in a rush.
Linda- Eggplants are the first plant I start they need heat to germinate they are a lot like hot peppers. Its way too cold for me to even think of starting squash or okra.

This message was edited Feb 26, 2010 12:47 PM

I can't imagine thousands of seedlings! So your dilemma is where to put them other than outside once you pot up? Yep. Dilemma!

Internet down @ work and at home. Saving aircard usage so working from cellphone!

Pulled seeds last night. Have to toe list. Thanks Lisa! Will sow eggplant seeds tomorrow like the bells. Have one ahwld left. Good thing, too! Iqith more cold ahead I might sow a couple more tomato seeds after all. That'll mean a shorter summer. If can keep em happy til fall might get a decent crop by Thanksgiving. It was just too much heat this past summer.

Lisa Keep me posted on your growing schedule. I think I'm gonna work closely with where you go next. Thx!

Linda

Lisa,

You can save a lot of space with seedlings by going vertical. I bought the cheap wire "bread racks" at Lowes for my seedlings last year. The shelves are about 20" x 50". I have them wired with the cheapest shop lights (48",two-bulb) down the length of the shelves (hanging by the chains, to adjust height.. I have three fixtures (6 bulbs) per shelf, but could probably squeeze in one more fixture for more light. Each shelf holds four nursery trays, so I have room for a total of 16 trays on one rack.

I spent about $9 per light and the shelf was about $50. The entire setup for one rack (including power strips and a timer) was under $200. That seems like a lot at one time, but I won't have to buy anything for a couple of years, and only new bulbs after that. Depending on the size of pots you are using (how many fit per flat), you could grow a thousand plants in 2 or 3 racks. One rack alone is enough for over a thousand jiffy pellets. I put my racks on the wheels, so they can be rolled outside (from the slightly heated garage) to harden off when it's time.

David

David can you post a picture? 18 pots fit in a flat. Your set up sounds like a great idea, I really like the idea of tthe wheels.
Gymgirl-I'll get back to you about why you may not want to follow my schedule but first I have to get the goat out of my greens garden.

Look at this one. I built mine just like it, using the Boards and stacked concrete blocks. You suspend the cheapest shop lights (48",two-bulb) down the length of the shelves (hanging by the chains, to adjust height..).

Mine aren't as wide as Dreaves' shelves, but I could make them wider. I think I might also retrofit mine to accommodate two light kits side-x-side instead of just the one (I have two kits running down the length of the entire shelf). Right now, I can get two standard trays down my length. But, I could do 4 lights instead of only two per shelf. Would probably revolutionize my seedling output, too!

Also, you can customize the length to fit your available space, AND you can paint the shelves and blocks to work with your decor!

My set up works great before the plants get potted up, but now that the plants are bigger and the temps are the same as Dec with no warm up in site they are outgrowing their surroundings. I posted a thread on the tomato forum, to get help.
Maybe I shouldn't pot them up but just leave them?

Lisa,

I have to get some batteries for my camera...but I'll post a picture tomorrow. The link below is a picture of the rack before I added another set of lights to each shelf. That gives enough light to turn the trays sideways and get four per shelf.

http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/fp.php?pid=4570406

David

Thanks, for the link. You still haven't gotten batteries for your camara? Teasing
What have your temps been like in Hutto? The reason I ask is because a bunch of these plants are going to Taylor. If its warmer there maybe she'll take them sooner and that will solve my space problem.
Lisa

I hit the jackpot at work last month and I scored about a dozen free t4 fluorescent fixtures. I can turn the 1020 trays sideways like Dreaves and fit 3 per shelf. It only takes 2 bulbs to light each shelf this way (those t4's are bright.) Only problem is my erratic watering schedule (and my aggressive method of hardening off the babies by leaving them outside for 2 days at a time because I am too hung over to bring them in) is messing with the ghost chili's and scotch bonnets, everything else is coming along well. This year I am going for less pepper plants but more variety of the hot ones. Who needs 24 banana pepper plants anyhow right? Thanks so much for all your help folks!

BELL PEPPER UPDATE #2

This is day number 12 from the pic in the top post (February 18th was potting up day).

The seedling is approximately 6" tall and it is getting its 4th set of true leaves. The cotlyedons are below the soil surface. The lowermost leaves are the 1st set of true leaves.

All the Bell Peppers are growing like this...

This message was edited Mar 2, 2010 8:53 AM

They look really good

Great going, Linda!

Ok, ya'll. This is truly my FIRST experience with bell peppers, and I don't want to mess them up once they go outside. I'm gonna go read up some more!

Thanks for the encouragement, guys!