I wish hot wire would work well on pasture. That's what all my fences are and they won't stay hot!!
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Terri and grownut. The answer to both of your cunundrums is electric wire. I use turbowire from Galleghers. It's the absolute best temp fence line on the market (I've used other brands and there's no comparison. It costs more up front but will last 10 times as long). I use it for permanent fence as well, using 2 strands for permanent and 1 strand for temporary unless there are little pigs, and then I'll use 2. Stepin posts make it easy to set over uneven terrain. The charger is the heart of the matter. If you have access to power where you're fencing, the higher joule rating the better. I run all my fence off 12v solar power which produces 3 to 4 joules. With electricity you can go much higher. I don't have any trouble with wildlife getting in the pastures except for the occassional deer that jumps the fence. I don't have it set very high for the pigs, 24 inches is about the highest I ever set it.
Thank you very much. We are actually working on a temporary electric fencing project this weekend (or as least getting started). You have answered most of DH's questions!
Argh. My biggest problem is that we have existing fencing which hubs keeps adding to. More and more wires. And any manner of brambles, tree limbs, critters, constantly attacking it. We should have MORE than enough power for the little area we have. It started out with a HECK of a charge. It just keeps getting compromised somehow....
grownut, you can get a fence tester for a couple of bucks and walk your fence line and check the voltage on each wire. If you have a lot of weed pressure, the lower wires may be losing voltage, or you may have a break somewhere. I mow beside my fence and then move the fence in the mowed lane to keep from dealing with weeds. That's one of the beauties of stepin posts vs permanent t-posts or wood posts. Your only alternative there is to weedeat (beaucoup labor) or spray roundup. You may want to check that your charger is still well grounded too! In the photo you can see the stepin posts with 2 runs of turbowire.
Yeah. (And many thanks, btw {that's 'by the way'})Our fencing won't allow for mowing around most of it so it's Hubs and the weedeater. We use the step posts for between wood fencing already in place. But after the ice storm last year it has just been one problem after another. Trees weeds deer dogs. And with constant rain and snow...I'm afraid runoff has affected the ground somewhat. Right now I'm (obviously, ;~) disenchanted...
I treat all my fencelines regularly with Roundup - or a cheaper glyphosate herbicide. It is the only way I can keep them clear. After last year's hurricane during which every tree that fell seemed to aim straight for the fence really grounded everything out; it took a couple of weeks to get it all hot again. I use both kinds of chargers. The ones near the house/barn are plug-in and are "Low Impedence" the more distant acreage is fenced with a solar charger. I especially like the Parmak chargers; they seem to last forever.
I agree porkpal, the Parmak 12v solar chargers are solid. That's what I use too. I don't have electricity at my farm, but if I did I would go with a minimum 10 joule output. Any animal, wild or domestic, would only touch it once.
So, now for a newbie fencing question. What do you all do for corner bracing for your electric fences?
Terri, if you're putting up high tensile electric wire you need to use corner and line posts just like you would for barbed wire. If you're using turbo or polywire you can use single t-posts for corners, because there's not much tension on the wire. Hope that helps.