Digging Iris's up & Iris borer

Hi Folks,
I have a row of Iris's that only a few bloom each year. They (not all) turned yellow & brown then wilted to nothing. I really have not done anything to them or taken care of them so maybe that could be the problem. I see them in fields of old farms that have been abandoned for years that look good so I'm thinking maybe I have those Iris borers that I read about.

Regardless, I was going to dig them up to move them. I dug one up to look at the root or bulb to see if I could see any bugs or borer. I didn't see anything. My questions are:

* When I dig them should I do anything particular to them before planting them in their new location. Should I spray them with some kind of borer killer.

* How would I tell if these have that borer?

* Should these be planted together in a group instead of a row? Every garden I see has them in groups not rows.

Thank you for your time.

Joel.

Transplanting Iris Bulbs
The correct method for transplanting iris bulbs depends on the type of iris involved. There are two broad divisions known as bulbous and rhizomatous. The bulbous type, as its name suggests, grow from bulbs and comprise most of the English and Dutch iris varieties. On the other
hand the rhizomatous type have rhizomes which are horizontally growing underground stems that are used as food storage for the plant. The common bearded iris falls into this group as well as the beardless Siberian and Japanese iris.

The bulbous irises can be transplanted when the foliage has wilted after flowering. Before transplanting iris bulbs prepare the ground thoroughly by digging and forking in some compost or other organic material together with some general fertilizer.

The rhizomatous irises are best transplanted in late summer from July to the end of September. This type tends to grow into a large clump and after three or four years produce less flowers. The clump will need to be divided at this time and replanted.

When transplanting iris bulbs, first cut back the leaves to about one third of their height. Lift the entire clump with a spade or digging fork. Use a sharp knife to separate the rhizomes. The new transplants should have a firm rhizome with roots and a fan of leaves. Remove and discard the old rhizomes and only replant the younger smaller rhizomes that grow off of the older stems.

Before replanting you should dig in some organic material to improve the structure of the soil and aid drainage. Do not plant the new sections too deep but allow part of the rhizomes to remain uncovered by soil.

For more information on iris flower bulbs and our recommended

http://www.garden-supplies-advisor.com/transplanting-iris-bulbs.html

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Iris Care

If you are unable to plant your irises right away store them in a cool dry place. The sooner the irises are planted, the more likely they will perform well for you the following spring. PLANT your irises in a sunny, well-drained location (at least one half day of sun). Too much shade will produce heavy foliage, but little or no bloom. Soil pH should be close to neutral – add lime to sweeten very acid soils. Don’t plant iris too deeply; just barely cover the rhizome with earth. Firm soil tightly around each rhizome. For heavier, clay type soils, add aged compost, course sand and/or gypsum to the soil when preparing the bed, and plant irises in raised beds. Plant from one to two feet apart. For immediate effect plant closer, or plant three roots of a kind in a circle for a clump effect next season. When planting during very hot weather, it may be beneficial to shade the iris for a couple of days.

CULTIVATING AND WATERING Bearded irises do not like “wet feet”. When newly planted they will require weekly watering until the roots are established. After that, or in established clumps, infrequent but deep watering is best. Keep irises free of weeds and don’t allow other plants to shade or unduly restrict air movement around the irises. Winter protection is not necessary in milder climates, but in colder sections of the country, a winter mulch of bark, pine boughs, or straw should be applied after the first frost. REMOVE COVERING when growth starts, early in the spring. Do not cut back iris leaves while still green; the foliage feeds the plant for the next season. Foliage can be cut back in the fall if desired. Cut bloom stems off at ground level after boom.

Bearded iris will thrive with a minimum of fertilizer. Do not use green manure or high-nitrogen fertilizer, which can promote soft growth that, is apt to rot. Bone meal worked into the soil before planting is good; superphosphate is another good fertilizer, or any low nitrogen fertilizer (5-10-10), applied about a month before bloom works well in the spring. Sprinkle on the ground around the plants, not on the iris rhizome itself. Water in.

IRIS PROBLEMS

1)Bacterial Soft Rot caused by excessive moisture conditions, poor drainage or too much nitrogen in the soil or fertilizer. Remove the soft portion of the rhizome with an old spoon, until you reach hard rhizome. Dust with powdered sulfur, or drench with a weak solution of bleach (9 parts water to 1 part bleach). Comet cleanser will also work because of its bleach content. Keep free from dirt and expose to air and sun to heal over. 2)Leaf Spot can occur when weather is wet and/or muggy. To combat, spray regularly with a fungicide such as used on roses about every two weeks from early spring until warm, dry weather occurs. 3)In the East and Midwest Iris Borers can be controlled by spraying with Bayer Advanced tree and shrub insect control concentrate and/or a granular product Bayer Advanced 24-hour grub control ready-to-spread, with Merit. Keeping the Iris beds clean and the naturally browning leaves picked up is the best prevention since Borer Moths lay their eggs in the dead foliage in fall and it is the larvae which hatch in the early spring and feed on the iris leaves and rhizomes. DIG AND DIVIDE iris clumps when they become over-crowed – usually after 3-4 years. Dig the entire clump with a spading fork or shovel. Cut off larger, healthy, outer rhizomes with leaves. Discard the old “mother” rhizomes. Trim leaves to about 6-10” long. Plant new divisions, as indicated above.

http://www.breezewayiris.com/iris-info/iris-care.html