How much water?

Seale, AL(Zone 8b)

tryign to grow thes e Dahlias in the groudn for the first time. Have some sprout s that are are slowly growign and alot that have not coem up yet.

I am wodnerign though how much water do they need when they small and in the ground. temps been over 100+ here for weeks nwo and the bed dries otu real fast, but am afriad of overwaterign sicne I have no ide a what I doing in tryign to grow in groudn instea d of pot s for first time.

Don't wanan los e the few I have up so wouldappreciate any advic e on waterign and fertilizing in the ground. Thanks!

Issaquah, WA(Zone 7a)

Hi Ella,
Once they have a shoot maybe 4"+ tall, if it's really warm and dry, I'll give them an inch of water a week. As they grow, the more foliage and plant to support, the more likely I am to water an inch twice a week. Did you give them fert of any kind? Mulching around the root zone maybe 8-10" or so out from the shoot would help conserve moisture too. Compost, leaves, straw or such work well and adds to the soil quality.

Seale, AL(Zone 8b)

Nope haven't fertilize d them at all, just put them ina bed of field composte d cow manure mixe d with some pien bark and old pottign soil that had tileld all under.

I trying. : ) Gonan learn one way or another. One is doign real good so far and don't wantto los e any of them.

Issaquah, WA(Zone 7a)

I'm not familiar with pine bark, but if it's not pretty well broken down, the rootlets might be having trouble getting nourishment in that environment. I'd work in some fertilizer: time released, water-soluble, whatever.

For the ones that haven't come up- that's not good at this late date in your warm climate. I'd gently excavate and see if the tuber has rotted or no eye is formed. Some are deathly slow, but not this slow. From what I've seen, dahlias that have emerged and then wilt or fail are signs of a failing tuber. Sometimes they form roots high up by the shoot and you can just cut off the rotten tuber, replant and let the little stub go on to grow and prosper. Sometimes it's time to dig, chuck in the garbage and plant something else there.

Here's one discussion on pine bark, various kinds, and you can take from it what applies to your soil and the type of pine bark you used.

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/soil/msg0521363210210.html

Pinellas Park, FL(Zone 10a)

Not sure if this helps, since there's a big diff between zone 8 and 10, but I can definitely relate to heat and dried out beds! On my sprouted kids, I have them mulched and I have to water every day-that sun is a beast. For my unsprouted dudes, I get a little intimate with them (this is probably bad for them somehow). They are unmulched, but I will stick my finger pretty far down, to test the soil and see how moist it is. Usually, I need to water every 2-3 days. But, I also mix good quality potting soil (I'm in love w/Lamberts) in when I lay the tubers, just so it will keep the moisture better in this sun/heat.

One year I tried pine bark, and my slug population was horrendous. Maybe because the pieces are just the right size to harbor moisture and protect them from sun? This year, I tried cypress, because it was cheap, the pieces are small and I love the smell. I just recently found out, the population of cypress trees (esp. in our nature reserves, FL everglades, etc.) is drastically dwindling because it is so cheap to make and I feel so bad! So, need to find a new mulch.

Anyhoo-hope that haelps.

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