Help! Need something ASAP kill beetles on contact thats safe

Cedar Springs, MI(Zone 5b)

I need something ASAP to kill Rose Chafers on contact.
Spinosad and Neem doesn't faze them.
Please help!
They are destroying everything. :(
Thanks Much!

Cedar Springs, MI(Zone 5b)

Somebody must know!!!

Charlotte, NC(Zone 7b)

The only thing I know about Neem and killing beetles with it is -- you must coat the beetle in the Neem mixture so they will suffocate. Spraying whatever the beetles are eating will not kill them.

I had a big problem with Rose Chafers last year, they completely ruined my Knockout Roses - but I did NOT do a thing, other than pick off every rose bud! Eventually, the good bugs must have come along and got the chafers 'cause this year there's not one chafer on the roses (touch wood)

Cedar Springs, MI(Zone 5b)

I have literally, no exaggeration, have THOUSANDS and hand picking doesn't make any difference even if I do it 3 x day.
I tried that for quite a few years.
Didn't even put a noticable dent in the population.
I have dry sandy soil and they thrive here.
I've spray them directly with Neem and Spinosad and it did not kill them. I went back and checked and the ones I sprayed weren't even acting even dopey. :(
I think sadly I'm going to either have to stop gardening or use chemicals.

Elmira, NY(Zone 6a)

Did you spray under the leaves? I had them in my last place, and if I sprayed the top of leaf with anything, it didn't work at all. I had to spray the undersides of all the leaves where the worms are. It was a lot of work and I missed places. Just a pitched battle all season.

Glendale/Parks, AZ

Would you consider putting the chafers in a blender with some water, add a little blue dish soap when blended then spray that mixture?

Dublin, CA(Zone 9a)

Your best bet is probably to try and control them earlier in the season before they become beetles--when they're in their grub stage in the ground you can use beneficial nematodes to control them. Milky spore may work too--I know it works on Japanese beetle grubs so it may work on these as well. It's easier to control them safely & organically at that point than once they've turned into adults.

Bay City, MI(Zone 6a)

What you're asking for is a safe poison that kills instantly on contact, ant that's hard to come by & still remain within organic and IPM principles.

100% cold-pressed or virgin neem oil is a very effective product - much more effective than those products listing "neem" as an ingredient, but using oil or fractions of the oil that was extracted with steam or solvents, which destroys the effectiveness of the insecticidal compound azadirachtin contained in the extract.

I actually conducted an experiment with 2 coleus plants placed in a kids bug box with a dozen Japanese beetles. One plant was treated with a mix of water/isopropyl alcohol @ 50/50 with cold-pressed neem oil and a little Murphy's soap as an emulsifier/wetting agent. The treated plant was completely untouched overnight, while the untreated plant was demolished. I did this experiment for a nearby botanic garden to illustrate neem's effectiveness.

I just described it's benefit as an antifeedant, but didn't mention neem works in many other ways. It is effective as a topical, but also works systemically. In addition to being an anti-feedant, it's an oviposition deterrent (anti-egg laying), a growth inhibitor, a mating disrupter, and a chemosterilizer. Azadirachtin, a tetranortriterpenoid compound, closely mimics the hormone ecdysone, which is necessary for reproduction in insects. When present, it takes the place of the real hormone and thus disrupts not only the feeding process, but the metamorphic transition as well, disrupting molting. It interferes with the formation of chitin (insect "skin") and stops pupation in larvae, thus short-circuiting the insect life cycle. It also inhibits flight ability, helping stop insect spread geographically.

Though there is no immediate knockdown associated with its use (other than that offered by the inclusion of alcohol if you choose, which can be very effective against certain marauders, btw) it is extremely effective against insects than have chewing/rasping/sucking mouth parts if you use the right product.

Al

Cedar Springs, MI(Zone 5b)

Yes I was wondering if there was something they would kill them on contact that wasn't too toxic.
BTW I have 5 acres and tons of roses spread out all over so I have alot to deal with.
Its rather overwhelming to say the least when thousands of bugs and caterpillars are attacking my roses, vegetables and flowers.
Wish I was only dealing with a few posies and a couple roses bushes.
I was going to put beneficial nematodes down but missed my window of opportunity. I'm going to try and hit them with nems.
later this summer when the Chafers are in a grub stage.
Thanks for all the information.
It is appreciated.

Cedar Springs, MI(Zone 5b)

Al I'm going to have to get some of the cold pressed Neem Oil.
Where do you get it?

Deep South Coastal, TX(Zone 10a)

Spinosad has to be ingested for it to work. It's not supposed to harm beneficials, but is deadly to bees.
Have you tried pyrethrin? It's good for a quick knock-down. It kills all insects, good and bad, so be careful when spraying. Check label for natural pyrethrin, not synthetic pyrethroids.

Bay City, MI(Zone 6a)

It's available all over the net, CR. Just do a search using the words Dyna-Gro Neem for the brand I use, then choose your source.

Al

Cedar Springs, MI(Zone 5b)

Thanks!

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