Pruning my doublefile viburnums. Help!

I have four magnificent double file viburnums that desperately needed pruning. Based on what I thought was sound knowledge, I removed the thickest woody branches at the base, and new growth is indeed springing up. But it is as if the thinner branches needed the thicker ones for support, for they are now bending way over, making for a most unattractive row of bushes. What I want to know is this: if I were to do a drastic prune, cutting all the branches to the ground, as I have successfully done with other bushes, would I destroy the double file viburnums? I have read that this may happen, but I don't want to believe it. Or might they not thrive from such a drastic measure? Does anyone have the experience to help me with this onerous problem? Many thanks, HarryBear

Harry, Doublefile's have a unique shape. I would think that trimming may distort them. Too late now. Let's hope the new growth will get stronger and stop bending over. Maybe VibernumValley will see this thread. That's the person who would really know if you did wrong. You could also search the member list and send a private D-mail with your question.

Sorry I can't be more help.

Diana

I hate to see the juxtaposition of terms magnificent doublefile viburnums and desperately need pruning...

If I could see what was and then what is, I might be able to offer some more targeted opinions. What pastime has stated is correct. Viburnum plicatum var. tomentosum has a distinct and unique shape for the Viburnum clan, becoming quite horizontally branched with age and forming layers like an older Flowering Dogwood canopy. This species doesn't readily accept unplanned pruning.

I can only guess, based on what you've written. See if I get close.

You had magnificent plants, that were probably a combination of larger older thicker woody stems from the base that were the mainstays of the horizontal habit as described. Amongst this architecture, there were/are additional smaller thinner stems (which were probably primarily vertical in nature without much side branching) that were being supported by the big mainstay structure. With this support, the smaller thinner branches were essentially being staked! They didn't develop woody cells along their stems in reaction to wind or gravity even. That's how trunks work, and why staking woody plants for a long time deprives them of the opportunity or inclination to support themselves.

So, when you cut out the big stems, the little ones flopped. Not much to do now about that. Your idea to simply mass prune the whole plant to the ground (or nearly to; you might want to save some leafy parts) is probably best at this point.

If you have had good growing conditions for these plants, then rejuvenation can work - with some caveats. Keep an eye on moisture, so that the plants have plenty to push dormant basal buds into new growth. You should probably cast some handfuls of general purpose granular fertilizer around their rooting zone, to provide some extra nutrient availability. 10-10-10 is fine. Have whatever soluble fertilizer you normally use on vegetables or container plants handy, to give the new growth a boost as well. Don't fertilize too late in the season for your zone - that's probably August for you.

3b? Do you live on the north side of the top of a mountain? I'm amazed that Doublefile Viburnum would be able to tolerate that extreme of temperature. We traveled through Binghamton last fall; seemed a bit more tranquil and accommodating than the vast and bitter Canadian prairies. No offense to our Manitoban, Albertan, and Saskatchewanian friends, but I know where those Clippers blow in from.

To wrap up: Ask first, measure twice...and cut once, 'cause you can't put it back.

I hate to tag onto HarryBear's question, but on the concept of ask first. ....I have 2 Korean Spice Viburnums that, for the second year have been plagued wtih a white mildew on the underside of their leaves. I got some mold and disease stuff to spray on and understand that it won't eradicate the mold but may arrest the spead to other leaves. My question is whether pruning out the older wood would open the plant, allow for more air flow and discourage this mildew problem. If so, what's the best approach for pruning. thanks.

Downy mildew is no fun, but it is mostly an aesthetic problem. If you want good control of a fungal disease, clean up all the fallen leaves every fall and dispose of them. Apply a prophylactic antifungal spray in early spring (when's that, July for you?) as the new leaves are emerging and enlarging. Accessing information on that plant from your local cooperative extension office should give you the most detailed and valuable data on appropriate chemical and timing of application. You are right, though - in general, spraying now does essentially nothing.

Pruning may be of some value, but knowing what your plants look like would help immensely in making that sort of determination. "Pruning out older wood" is quite a loaded statement. To increase air circulation, some thinning of the canopy or framework is desirable, but not necessarily concentrating on older wood.

Show us what you got.