Anybody know what is happening to my Palm? I got it at Ikea about a year ago, so I am not sure that the botanical name is correct. It was fine until about a month ago. I water it when the soil dries completely out, as recommended on the tag on the plant. It sites near a west facing window and gets afternoon sun.
Thanks in advance...
Sue
Another look at the whole plant, it isn't well focused, but...
Mine did that, too - treated it for mealy bugs and got them under control with insecticide - now, they are beautiful! I would think it's either spider mites or mealy bugs.
I think this is cultural. Have you fertilized it at all? Discolored leaves can also mean the plant isn't getting enough sun. Sago leaves often turn yellowish when it is getting ready to throw a new set of leaves, too.
If you are truly not overwatering (so easy to do) I would guess it is lack of sun, or lack of nutrition.
Spider mites cause stippling - discoloration - on the leaves and there will be evidence of webbing too.
Mealy bugs can easily be seen with their white waxy covering.
Scale is another insect that attacks Sagos, and can be seen as brown raised bumps that can be popped off with your fingernail.
Cee & Kay
Haven't seem any of these on the plant. No webbing, no white waxy cover, no brown bumbs. She just started turning brown. I think it is a feed problem. I haven't found a good food yet, but am taking both Track's and Palm's advice. She is repotted with 4 to 1 mix of soil and sand. She was fed with Espoma's 'Plant-tone', but I think I will use Miricle grow from here out. If you want to know all that has happened with this Palm, visit this link: http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1001383/
Sue
hi sue,
just happened to find you here. i thought i would continue with a few thoughts here on this forum if you don't mind.
your sago is showing classic signs of magnesium deficiency. miracle grow has manganese but no magnesium. you very well can use the MG, as palmbob suggested, but supplement with a very small amount of regular old epsom salts (found in any drugstore or probably in your own medicine cabinet). i would use a teaspoon sprinkled around the perimeter of the pot and water in.
good luck and let us know how your plant looks in the future.
debi
wrong picture-back later!
This message was edited Jun 14, 2009 1:25 PM
here ya go! especially read the last paragraph! http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.palmtreegardens.com/images/manganese%2520defiency.jpg2.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.palmtreegardens.com/about5.html&usg=__lRXuMbd1yqXjaETdg2v9ETpLOOk=&h=480&w=688&sz=78&hl=en&start=19&tbnid=D8GyUoVthYu8dM:&tbnh=97&tbnw=139&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmanganese%2Bdeficiency%2Bpalms%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG
This message was edited Jun 14, 2009 1:30 PM
Tracks (Debi) My Palm has the Opposite happening to its 'leaves'. They are yellow/brown with a GREEN margin. That deficiency has the Opposite description with 'leaves' Yellow/Brown at the MARGINS. Could this be the same deficiency?
yes, i know it's opposite but i think yours is just a drastic case. i can't come up with anything else. when i said "classic case" above, i realized that it was backwards! lol i think yours is a mix of things with nitrogen, potassium and magnesium being the three worst in evidence.
i hope this helps and doesn't confuse you further.
Although I agree with trackinsand (didn't know there was another thread going on this...) there is certainly some confusion among "experts".
From a landscaper:
If you see a sago palm yellowing it’s most likely an iron deficiency. Browning of the plant indicates a magnesium deficiency. http://www.infinitilandscaping.com/how-to-maintain-sago-palms/
From Larry Williams, Horticulture Agent for the University of Florida IFAS Extension in Okaloosa County: Any one or more of three principal symptoms may reveal a manganese deficiency. The first is chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves, which may be interveinal (occurring only between leave veins) or may cover the entire leaf. The second symptom is a noticeable reduction in the size of leaves, branches and fruit. The third is necrosis (dead tissue), which may occur in patches or over entire areas of a plant. In some cases, chlorosis and necrosis will both be observed on manganese deficient plants. But, you won’t usually see all three symptoms together.
It’s very common to see manganese deficiency in sago palms. In this case it is called frizzle top. This name is descriptive because the new growth begins to turn yellow, then brown and takes on frizzled appearance. You’ll need to use manganese sulfate to correct the problem.
John Cawley, "plant expert" mentions the same symptoms and calls it magnesium deficiency: Leaf chlorosis in cycads (sago palm) can be a symptom of magnesium deficiency. The fronds become yellow, and any new fronds develop a "frizzy" top.
This can be corrected by spraying with a solution of magnesium sulfate (epsom salts) (1 tsp./gallon water). http://en.allexperts.com/q/Plant-Diseases-715/sago-palm-ick.htm
http://www.infinitilandscaping.com/how-to-maintain-sago-palms/ for another possible cause: iron deficiency - use chelated iron.
Orange flecking or yellowing on lower leaves is often caused by potassium and magnesium deficiency. This is what happened to my sagos, and I treated with palm fertilizer, which has these nutrients. http://ucce.ucdavis.edu/files/datastore/268-79.pdf
Tom Broome, president of the Cycad Society likes Nutricote 360. It is an 18-6-8 with minors, 360 day formula. http://www.plantapalm.com/Vce/horticulture/fertilizer.htm
This is his website: http://cycadjungle.8m.com/
So, if it were my sago, I would begin a program of fertilization using the Nutricote 360. This way you have all bases covered. Be aware that the greening of leaves will show up in the next flush, and you may or may not see it with these current leaves.
current pic of Sago
base
Sago looks way too dry-not sure if you have been keeping it on the dry side or just looks that way. Also saw that everyone told you to fert, which is good, but I wonder if you gave it too much fert and thats why the leaves are burnt, or they are sunburnt from going into direct sun too fast, or the too dry soil for too long. Palmbob was right-they can go outside in direct sun as soon as the temps get warmer for you in the spring (when the are no more frosts is a safe way to go) and come inside when the frosts start up again in the fall, Then stick it in the house where it will get the most sun all winter, and that is when you can cut back some on the watering.
concerning the fertilizing-easiest, safest way to go is to get some slow release fertilizer ( Home Depot sells small amts of Nutricote, but it may be under a different name-just ask someone for it, its a see thru container about a qt size). The usual rate is about 1 tablespoon of fert per gallon container. Find out how long this slow release lasts ( they are usually 3, 6 or 9 month ) and reapply when it runs out. these slow releases have all the micronutrients that you need.
Even if all the leaves turn brown on this plant, as long as you keep it watered, it will send out new leaves. The key to watering most plants is too water well and then let it dry out and then water again right away. I end up watering most of my container plants everyday in the summer if they are in full sun. In the winter, I let them dry out more. Hope this helps!
