Australian and New Zealand Gardening: mini orb (mini corrugated iron) wall, 1 by weed_woman

weed_woman wrote:
Adding your mini orb panels.
Use a clout (a nail with a wide head) at the top to secure. Make sure it is inserted above the point where your dado rail will cover it. Use as many as you like along the top edge. Check that the bottom of the mini orb is sitting within the lip of the bottom picture frame. You can also put a clout in the bottom left corner (it isn't obviously visible) and the bottom right corner, which will be covered by the next sheet. Start from the left and add sheets to the right.
Now a mistake we made was putting the sheets in willy nilly. Put the original edge at the bottom, and the cut edge at the top, as the original edge should be square! Make sure you have the edge of the corrugation curving toward the wall.
Overlap the next panel by at least two corrugations and remember where the first clout was nailed, so nail the next sheet through a diifferent corrugation. It could be usefull to check the right had edge of each sheet with a level, as sometimes it can get out of plumb, and the sheets will be crooked when you get to the end. You will find you can't nail the bottom left of each added sheet as it will be visible. We found it didn't seem to matter though, and left them un-nailed
ok, now you will need to add any extra length you need, and your right side timber. We decided to use an offcut of the dado rail, (a) because we didn't have enough of the picture frame and (b) because the cut end of the dado rail had a gap where the router cut out the overhang. So......we mitred it! Arggghhhhh!
Obviously we had to sit (not glue or nail) the dado rail ontop of what we had done so far, also had to add an extra piece for length, so made sure the join was behind the fire place. The top Mitre was cut, but only after we measured once, twice, even three times! We then mitred an 'over long' offcut of dado rail and butted it up to the top dado rail, on the right edge, then measured, measured again and marked where it touched the top edge of the skirting board, now cut it! Also mark where the right hand side Dado rail extends left, along the skirting, (then set it aside) because this is where your bottom picture frame will need to end, so you can measure the bottom picture frame now, and AGAIN, then cut it. Liquid nail it, drill the pilot holes and nail it into place.
remove your top dado rail and continue to add your sheets of tin until the end. Hopefully yours will be square, but if not, you may have to remove clouts and stretch, or ease top or bottom to get it square the end. You will need to finish the tin sheet short of the end, to allow for your right hand timber (for us, We needed about 25mm) you can cut the tin by scoring a line with a screwdriver, down the length of the corrugation, maybe rescoring a few times, and then bend it back and forth untill it breaks off. Use clouts to keep it in place.
Now you can put your side piece of timber into place, sit your dado rail on top again and check that it all fits. Take the top Dado rail off again.
Liquid nail your side timber, adhere to the edge, drill the pilot holes and nail it.
Liquid nail your top Dado rail, sit it in place, liquid nail and add any extra length and also sit in place, using liquid nails on the join and mitre. Tap along the wall to find the studs and nail the Dado railinto place with panel pins.
Wah-lah! a corrugated wall

This job really needs two people to make it easy.....ish! depending on the two people! heh heh.
You will need a day for the varnish/paint and a day to complete a wall of this size, with breaks for lunch and sanity!

photo one shows the join in the top Dado rail
Photo two shows the right hand side, using Dado to Dado rail and mitres.
Photo three. The finished wall

I hope this might help anyone attempting this kind of thing.
Please don't hesitate to ask for tips, and if I can, I will help.
Sue

This message was edited Aug 31, 2013 9:49 PM